My Lil' Sleeper........

Performance:
T&L 408ci SBC Crate Motor
K1 4340 forged stroker crank
Carillo 4340 forged 6" rods
Mahle forged pistons - 10.7:1
Dart Pro-1 Platinum 200cc heads
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap intake
Comp 230/244 .510/.540 cam
Hedman 1 5/8" shorty headers
Custom stainless Y-pipe
Flowmaster 3" cat-back system
MSD street billet dist W/6AL
MSD SuperConductor Wires
MSD shift light
AED Holley 750 DP
Nitrous Works 75-200 plate system
Nitrous Works bottle heater
NOS progressive controller
NOS safety kit
Moroso low-profile air cleaner W/K&N filter
Custom-built 700R4 trans W/Manual VB
B&M Megashifter
Denny's nitrous-ready steel driveshaft W/1350's
Moser 12-bolt W/Truetrac and 3:73's
Spohn adjustable rear lower control arms
Spohn adjustable panhard bar
Spohn torque arm W/crossmember & driveshaft loop
Energy Suspension front control arm bushings
Energy Suspension front sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension resr sway bar bushings
Energy Suspension motor & trans mounts
UMI subframe connectors
Elbach 1" lowering springs
MT ET Street drag radials
12.70@110 on motor
11.62@117 on spray

Aesthetics:
Harwood 3" cowl hood
Stock aluminum 15x7 wheels
SilverStar headlamps

Sound:
Cheap-ass Sony head unit & speakers
Kicker 5-way amp & Pioneer 10" subs

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Driving a 10-second import is like coming out of the closet, everyone's shocked at first, but in the end you're just gay.

Thats a sweet car dude, but I think something aint quite right. You've got a big motor (408), a big cam, killer heads, killer inatke, great carb, decent exhaust, gears , etc, and it runs 12.70's at 110? I would look at the build sheet and just assume the motor would be at or very near the 500 flywheel horsepower level, which would put you around 420 or so at the wheels. That would get you down the track around an 11.00-11.20ish at around 118. Your mph is right in line with your ET so I know you aren't getting much wheelspin on the line. I would guess that the car is running very rich and/or you have the timing pulled out too much for the nitrous which is really hurting the N/A et's.

* the only thing I see that you are missing is a stall converter. Maybe you forgot to list it. If your car doesn't have one yet, GO GET YOURSELF ONE RIGHT NOW! You will LOVE it. I would suggest something in the 3500-3700rpm range by a REPUTABLE company, no ebay crap!

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1994 Z28 Black heads/cam th350 drag car
1995 Z28 Teal 'Vert bolt-ons 6-speed cruiser

Now thats a third gen that'll command respect on the roads

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"What if I told you insane was working fifty hours a week in some office for fifty years at the end of which they tell you to piss off; ending up in some retirement village hoping to die before suffering the indignity of trying to make it to the toilet on time? Wouldn't you consider that to be insane?"
-Steve Buscemi as Garland Greene in Con Air
www.fquick.com/firebirdphil

I'm confused as well. The motor came with a dyno sheet that showed it making 495HP on the dyno. I ran the car on a chassis dyno late last fall and it only put down 312 rwhp. OK, I can understand that there was no water pump, no alternator, no power steering, and straight headers on the engine dyno. I also realize that you have to subtract somewhere around 17-20% drivetrain losses. But wtf? Somewhere between the engine builder's dyno and my car I lost 200 hp?? My exhaust is the weakest link. Headman 1 5/8" shorty headers connected to 2 1/2" pipes that Y into 3" and then 3" Flowmaster cat-back system (no cats). THE CARB AND IGNITION ARE THE EXACT SAME ONES THAT RAN ON THE DYNO! Same jetting, same timing, etc. With my 150 shot the car put down 425rwhp on the dyno.
I think you may be right about the converter though. One of my winter projects is a transmission swap. I am dumping the 700R4 and swapping in a Turbo 350 built by a local shop that builds racing transmissions. Supposed to handle 800+ HP and has a reverse manual valve body. They spec'd an ATI 10" Super Streetmaster converter right around 3000 stall. Its all in my garage waiting for my lazy ass to get it done.
Either that, or I did not get the motor I paid for. Hard to tell without completely disassembling the whole damn thing. I'm also thinking that cam is kinda lame for that motor. I will probably be looking to do a cam swap in the not so distant future also.
Thanks for the help.....

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Driving a 10-second import is like coming out of the closet, everyone's shocked at first, but in the end you're just gay.

Sounds like you should either do the cam on your own, or do some research and get a better shop

Either way, love the "sleeper" look. Do you always run the stock camaro wheels, or is that just the ones you have your DR's on?

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Andy
▌1966 Oldsmobile Cutlass F-85 Deluxe
455cid F2 Block | Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads & ARP Bolt Kit | Mondello JM 22-25-10 Cam - 274/280 .512/.523 | Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Full Roller Rockers | Edelbrock Modified Performer Intake
▌1995 Chevy Camaro - Slow
My Cars are USDM, it's like JDM in Japan; Crazy Eh?

Got a Myspace? Friend our F-Body Online Account

Motor came from T&L Engine Development in NC. They've been featured in PHR and CHP so I thought they were reputable??? Who really knows though.....

I have six stock wheels, 4 have radial T/A's and 2 have MT Drag Radials. I'm all about being a sleeper!! Usually, when I get to the track and pull into the staging lanes, no one even gives the car a second look. After a couple of 11 second passes, a crowd gathers....lol

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Driving a 10-second import is like coming out of the closet, everyone's shocked at first, but in the end you're just gay.

Nice!! You are representing us 3rd gen guys very well!!

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NICE ride!

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www.freewebs.com/meangreenz28
LOOKING FOR '94 CAMARO DASH PAD ... PM ME

BTW....that first pic is me racing last September at the Flashlight Drags in Zelienople, PA.

Check us out in HRM - February 2008 issue - page 80 or at .: Altered Gas Performance Events :.

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Driving a 10-second import is like coming out of the closet, everyone's shocked at first, but in the end you're just gay.

I toally overlooked the header diameter. Yes those little tubes are hurting you. Go get some 1 3/4" LONG TUBES into a 4" Mufflex y-pipe/cat back. That will open up a good 30 or so HP easy. Re-check the timing. If your tranny shop recommends ATI then I guess give it a shot. I personally won't ever buy a low-mid priced converter. Neal Chance, Art Carr, Vigilante are some excellent choices, but they will run 700+. You get what you pay for with a converter. I would get a 3500+rpm. Your cam wants to run that high, so let it.

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1994 Z28 Black heads/cam th350 drag car
1995 Z28 Teal 'Vert bolt-ons 6-speed cruiser