See a pattern here?

now it fires up but will not hold an idle, it dips and shuts off but will stay at 1500rpm when held there no problem?

My wifes Jeep was recently giving us similar problems. Overheating and not holding idle, back firew slightly from time to time.......if you have checked : radiator, thermostat, water pump......you may have 1) a blown head gasket 2) cracked head.

The wifes jeep had a cracked head, the crack was between 2 water jackets and this caused hot exhaust gases to get into the cooling system, thus boiling the coolant in the radiator.

Good luck.

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2001 Z/28 6speed. TSP 231/237 598/595 112 cam, PRC .660 lift valve springs, titanium retainers, TSP 7.4 hardened push rods, Lid w/ Amsoil filter, Longtube headers, TSP true duels, richmond 4.10 gears, SLP maf, LS2 timing chain and gear set, Clevite rod and main bearings, ARP rod bolts, Power bond 25% UD pulley, Custom tune by RPM performance, BMR subframes, BMR LCA's, Edelbrock TQ arm, BMR panhard bar,315/35/17 MT ET streets on black ZR1's... 395 rwhp 381 rwtq

wow i hope to god thats not the problem.

before the coil on the 12v hote wire or the output of the coil if dont have an ouput reading its the coil if you have a out put reading at the coil but not the plugs id check the optispark cap and rotor, coil wire to the cap, and the plug wires thats the only issues after the coil

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94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS

only possible problem is the cap which runs 60$ and 15-18$ for the rotor google it because for some odd reason they usually only sell the whole distributor for like 220$ which ISNT necessary but that (cap and rotor) is the only possible problem

but the good news stops there it an all day project if you do it yourself or a 400$ bill at your local garage so ethier way your screwed!!!!!!!

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94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS

I had the same problem I actually posted it on here while ago...What it was in my case is a small hole/crack in radiator. It wouldnt overheat when i was driving bc thermo is cam driven.But when i stopped temp increase drastically got to point id put it in nuetral and rev it at lights to keep rpms up.I put some stop leak in it to buy some time till next pay for new radiator.Anyhow thought problem was fine like 2 days no low coolant light came on,then day 3 it came on as i was on way to store...I was obviously super p!st at this point but even madder when i came out of store and it wouldnt even start.Had get it towed only explanation garage had was that something got soaked when radiator built up pressure and started spewing out somehow shorted out my ground.They replaced radiator,flushed system to get stop leak crap out.Also had replace all cables from battery terminal and now runs fine no probs.

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Kutter