Whosyodaddykoo00

I'm asking this because I couldn't find it anywhere else in the forum. I'm sure they're are lots of kids coming in and asking this, but I wanna know what it takes to spray. Nothing big, just a 100 shot. Also it would have to be carefully. This si my only car, but its cool, im a kid. I'm willing to take a chance, but I'm hopin to take a chance that would not be putting my car at too much risk.

Ive looked up most of the info on what to get, and I was told the following so far:
'97 Z28 LT1 6speed Manual (Hurst short shift kit)
Colder plugs (I have ngtr6's), should work fine
Longtube Headers
Full 3 inch Exhaust
Stg 3 clutch
and other little mods

So, I guess my question is, what else do I need, if anything (other than the nitrous kit)?

Phate

None of those, sparing the spark plugs, are needed for nitrous.

You'll need (for a safe working kit) upgraded aftermarket fuel pump, injectors, staged nitrous controller, upgraded oil pump and assembly, and a few other things. Depending on how many miles your motor has, and if your going to be using a wet or dry system I can tell you further.

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FBC Performance

Call Art at FBC and he'll get you pricing on what you need. Or even better, email him at aferrillo@fbodycentral.com

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fbodycentral.com.....Specializing in Late Model GM Performance 410-242-0404

Phate

I wanted to post more on this thread when I got home from work, so here goes.

A 100 shot of nitrous is not a 'little' shot. Its enough that precaution and safety become an issue. All of the modifications I stated are for an ideal running nitrous system on a reasonably new motor, with the proper upgrades.

No mods are 'needed' to run nitrous, as it will work on any car. But how long it works is the real issue. If you want the nitrous to work correctly, I would also include an Air Intake and Cat Back Exhaust System of some type, as you mentioned. Lack of air can cause issues.

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jester77

You should check out Phate's nitrous guide, it a very good read .

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-94 Formula 383stroker,ps longtubes,tf heads,9inch w/ locker < lsx swap in '09
-94 Firebird for sale!!! or parts
-96 Blazer < lt1 transplant in '09

Whosyodaddykoo00

alright. Ill check it out. If it makes any difference, I'm not planning on using this more than a few times in the time I have it. I rarely go home and have fun with my car enough to consider myself a racer/modder.

Other question's: should I consider getting something that controls the amount of nitrous being dispersed (ie: 50% at 3000 riding up to 100% at highest rpm's)? And
is it REALLY crucial that you use a WOT switch? I have heard a lot of controversy over it, but I'm wondering if you are careful enough with the system, and how you use it, cant you just have a push button? Im not thinking of doing it, but I've always wondered if it was crucial...

FirebirdPhil

I think if someone has enough experience its not as necessary. And I'm talking a few years worth of experience.

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"What if I told you insane was working fifty hours a week in some office for fifty years at the end of which they tell you to piss off; ending up in some retirement village hoping to die before suffering the indignity of trying to make it to the toilet on time? Wouldn't you consider that to be insane?"
-Steve Buscemi as Garland Greene in Con Air

SpecialK

Yes, you need a WOT switch. Hitting the juice at partial throttle is a bad thing. You want a WOT switch, then optionally, a manual switch to activate it. As phate said before a Upgraded fuel pump (using a old stock is just asking for fuel starvation) injectors, and colder plugs are pretty much required. Everything else is optional.

Though the optional stuff are what help nitrous along. Using a 100 shot on a bone stock LT will get you maybe 40 to the wheels due to lack of engine flow overall. grabbing headers and freeing up your intake will give you more power off the bottle. But on the bottle that same shot will give you even more power because the engine is not struggling to breathe. That same 100 might give you 60-80 to the wheels now.

A big thing to watch though, at the 100 shot level make DAMN sure you run good premium. A batch of bad gas will toast your motor in nothing flat on juice. Want some insurance? Mix 5 gal of race fuel with your fillup. That'll boost your octane rating to hopefully at least 93 where you'll be safe. Another thing you might want is activation switches so you don't activate the nitrous below 3000rpm, and bounce the rev limiter with nitrous still running.

You seem to be looking at a progressive controller too. I have a two stage system, and I don't' even worry about a progressive application unless I'm at a dead stop. If your going to do a lot of stoplight dashes a smaller shot might be a better idea especially considering progressive controllers are expensive.

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23:23] blkIROC355: sometimes when i pee i make that sound the light sabers make
[23:23] SpecialK LS1: lmao
[23:23] blkIROC355: and play with the stream
[23:23] SpecialK LS1: that's just wrong

Phate

Could'nt have said it better myself.

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Whosyodaddykoo00

I kinda have to go with the guy below my last thread in not needing a WOT switch. Why is everyone so uptight on it? I know you are looking out for the well being of everyones cars, but is it absolutely imperative that you have one? I understand that hitting it at partial throttle, or no throttle at all will potentially wreck your engine in some way. But is it IMPERATIVE? I know this is the second time asking it, but the guy up there said, no you don't.

In short: if nitrous is used only at full throttle, is the WOT needed?