ok im planning on buying the pacesetters exhaust system for my camaro..for 245 shipping and everything...you guys think its a good price for that? or there is better headers for a lil bit mroe or better price..i do want a boast in speed and i want it to sound sicker

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IF YOU CANT STAND SPEED..STAY OUT OF MY CAR

These are all the know headers built for the camaro 3.8 and 3.4

PaceSetter Headers Armor Coated, seems to be the one's everybody goes with, just make sure you spend the money for better gasket's and new header bolt's.
and the more you shop around the better price's you will find.

Hope that helps you out.




We are very happy to announce a reduced price on our hand-built, custom 3.8 Liter V6 headers for the 1998 and up Camaro and Firebird.
The header are made of 14 gauge mild steel. The flanges are laser-cut and 3/8" thick. The primaries are 1 1/2" into 2 1/2" collectors. They are satin ceramic coated inside and out. The custom Y-pipe is dual 2 1/2" pipes into a single 3" pipe. It is aluminized 14 gauge tubing and available for both the manual and automatic transmissions. Our headers have a superior fit and do not leak. We are known for our quality, performance and excellent customer service. Until recently, our V6 headers have been priced beyond the average V6 owner's price range. We have taken notice to the market and took measures to allow us to lower the price to be competitive with the competition. However, our headers are superior in every way!
Nuts, bolts and collector gaskets are included with the headers but until we can locate a source for custom made gaskets, the header gaskets are hand-cut paper gaskets.

Our V6 headers are now available! The Y-pipes are built to order.

ItemDescriptionPrice V80013.8 Liter F-body headers (Mild steel)$295.00V8002Chromex Ceramic coating by Performance Coatings$165.00V8003Custom Y-pipe for automatic transmission$150.00V8004Custom Y-pipe for manual transmission$150.00* Add $30.00 for S & H in the continental US.




PaceSetter Headers Armor Coated 3.8l fbody
Product Information
Manufactured using mandrel-bent, mild steel tubing and surface-ground, thick steel flanges, PaceSetter Headers are available with standard black painted finish or Armor Coating Finish. Each Armor Coated header undergoes an extensive preparation phase followed by two applications of the coating and a high-temp curing process that will resist rust and corrosion while reducing underhood temperatures. All PaceSetter Headers come with hardware, gaskets and illustrated instructions and are backed by a three-year warranty. Header bolts not included.

50-states legal
Price: $396.97

PaceSetter Headers Painted 3.8l fbody
Product Information
Manufactured using mandrel-bent, mild steel tubing and surface-ground, thick steel flanges, PaceSetter Headers are available with standard black painted finish or Armor Coating Finish. Each Armor Coated header undergoes an extensive preparation phase followed by two applications of the coating and a high-temp curing process that will resist rust and corrosion while reducing underhood temperatures. All PaceSetter Headers come with hardware, gaskets and illustrated instructions and are backed by a three-year warranty. Header bolts not included.

50-states legal
Price: $249.99

Item Detail Item Name
V6 Ceramic Coated Headers w/Y-Pipe

Item No
01096501
Price/ea:
$495.00 Quantity: The RKSport V6 header system offer individual tubes that are 1 3/4 in. in diameter with 3/8 in. flanges. Each system includes flanges at the end of the main header section, and the \"down\" pipe for the connection between the header pipe and the catalytic converter. All header systems come with ceramic coating and are manufactured from extremely strong 14-gauge steel. (1993-1995 3.4L V6; 1995-1997 3.8L V6) Will work on 98-02 3.8 V6 with slight modification FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY.

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Kris

See my exhaust/intake guide.

V6 Intake & Exhaust Guide

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"What if I told you insane was working fifty hours a week in some office for fifty years at the end of which they tell you to piss off; ending up in some retirement village hoping to die before suffering the indignity of trying to make it to the toilet on time? Wouldn't you consider that to be insane?"
-Steve Buscemi as Garland Greene in Con Air
www.fquick.com/firebirdphil

this is the headers i meant.......eBay Motors: PaceSetter header 95-02 Chevrolet Camaro 3.8L 70-1209 (item 140271528624 end time Oct-06-08 19:00:00 PDT)

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IF YOU CANT STAND SPEED..STAY OUT OF MY CAR

the only problem with the painted ones, are that they rust up pretty quick, but yeah that's a good price if you not going for looks. make sure you get some better gaskets, the ones that come with the kit our know to leak






.

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Kris

abbott racing gaskets!! are a must. Also a can of PB blaster or liquid wrench is necessary, stock header bolts are a b***h

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2000 Firebird 3.8L V6

Pacesetter headers & y-pipe | cacto 3in CAT | slp factory dual exhaust (off a SS) | whisper lid w/ K&N filter | aluminum DS | 1LE 32mm front sway bar | 3.42 w/ lsd

A guide to install pace setter headers (By 97rs4life)

some good info

New vs. Old
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../278896_79.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../278896_80.jpg


what you need
wrenches, sockets, metric tools, pliers
some extensions
welder and saw
2 PEOPLE (helpful, not needed)
Some other odds and ends

***Night Before*** Soak the manifold bolts with some good penetrating oil and do it again the morning of the install to help get the manifolds loose when doing install

1 Start up your car and get it warm to help when removing the bolts.

2 Pull it up on ramps, block back tire e-break all that, safety (I had a lift)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_74_full.jpg

3 Remove Y pipe by removing the bolts and then cutting the y pipe about 1"-2" in front of the cat unless you are replacing the cat as well.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_76_full.jpg

4 Remove heat shields as well as the starter shield to make more room. Get the plug wires out of the way, then remove the plugs, use gloves if manifolds still hot from your warmup. Also unplug O2 sensors so you can remove the sensors once the manifolds are out (don't loose white clips that you have to remove).

5 Remove the manifold bolts for both manifolds. I left the back stud closest to the firewall on the drivers side in because I heard it breaks a lot on people and the header fit in there with it still in the head. Made it a lot easier to install it because you can line up the gaskets and headers better this way. Passenger side I left the two studs in the head and reused the nuts and washers for each. (picture below shows 2 studs on drivers side, I removed the front one later when I couldn't get the header in there.)

It will take longer to get stock manifolds out then the new headers in. Getting the old manifolds off took almost 75% of the time of this install.

6 Both manifolds dropped out of the bottom of the car pretty easy. The drivers side was tight, but I was able to work it out without banging anything in to make room.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_78_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_77_full.jpg

7. As you take stock out get out the O2 sensors (or have new ones ready) mine came out after heating them up a little. I then installed them into the headers. I had to make an O2 extension for my passenger side header. For some reason it was a tad short. No big deal just some soldering and extra wire. Here is a pic of the sensor wiring harness location. It is tough to get at because it is on the backside of the engine (blue/black connection seen in picture towards top of block).
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_84_full.jpg

8. Install gaskets and headers from the bottom. I used some metal replacement gaskets and put RTV silicone (orange stuff) around each port on both side of the gasket to help seal the gasket when I tightened them down.

NAPA gaskets have been said to work good as well as the pacesetter paper gaskets after soaking them the night before. Also Abbott's Racing work really well and cost $35.

New headers are easy to bolt in just start in the center and work outwards, then back to center till everything is snug.

9. Put in new plugs and 90* spark plug wires to keep them away from the header. Put starter shield back on and anything else you took off to make room.

10. Put y-pipe on, snug up bolts, weld to cat. I had the two piece y pipe so I welded that as well to prevent leaks.

Header bolts are 5/16 -18 1". I went to the local hardware and got some grade 8 hex bolts and they worked great. Also stage 8 sells locking header bolts for our cars for like $56 and they are kit #6912 if you are looking for them. It is a new kit and most retailers don't carry them yet so you can order directly from them. They told me $56 is shipped.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_81_full.jpg

11. EGR system is a tight squeeze but it will go in. I had to grind the hole a little bit to make it easier to slide in. Make sure to use a bunch of RTV Silicone High Temp on this as well. A big problem area with the pacesetters is the EGR hookup. In the picture you can see how far away it was and how much I had to pull it in.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_83_full.jpg

Stand back and admire your work.

12. Finally start it up and check for leaks. Warm it up and let it cool a few times and then check the bolts and snug them up if needed again. Then check the bolts a couple times the first week after the install, then after 100 miles, 300 miles and 1000 miles. After that you should be fine, wouldn't hurt to check them at every oil change however.

MMM, sexy looking huh?
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...96_82_full.jpg

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Kris

what you mean by pretty quick??years months weeks

__________________
IF YOU CANT STAND SPEED..STAY OUT OF MY CAR

I've never seen were anybody says how long it takes them to rust, they just all say they rust and the paint will start to come off. You can always use header wrap and even repaint them with some hi temp engine paint before the install. but here are some more facts about way to go with the ceramic coating.



Q: I'm about to buy headers, is the ceramic coating only for looks?
A: No, the ceramic coating will provide for a longer life for your headers and will keep your engine bay at a cooler temperature. Some people use header wrap to keep the engine bay cooler since it is a cheaper route. While it is cheaper, and does do it's job, the wrap shortens the life of your headers and will cause them to rust faster.

Q: What about the header gaskets and bolts that are provided with my headers, are they good enough?
A: Sometimes, it depends on how clean you get your heads before you install the headers. I suggest spending the extra $30 to email Lance at Abbott Racing Heads for their aluminum gaskets. Also, get some stage 8 locking header bolts to ensure against leaks. I also suggest checking the bolts once a week after installing headers to make sure everything is in place. After a month though you can get away with checking the bolts once a month. Yes it's one more thing you have to do, but this is your car, better safe than sorry.




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Kris