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#1 |
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New Member
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Ok, im not real sure what could be going on but I have ideas and im looking for some more peoples opinions as to what could be going on. I just recently got my car running again after about 10 years. Its a 305 tbi. I put a new sender fuel pump and strainer in the car and it came back to life. It seems to be running smooth at idle however as you start working your way up the rpm range it starts to "miss" almost like a fouled plug BUT when u get to like 3k RPM it will smooth back out to normal or it "sounds" like it does. Im not really sure where to begin with this one but im thinking "throttle position sensor" anyone had issues like this before?
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#3 |
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Member
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could be a completetly dead cylinder i had that problem with my lt1 car burnt a wire idle wasnt noticable but rev it do the same thing and then higher sounds like it clears up but it really doesnt because it just turning so fast the dead cylinder is less noticble or timing or low rpm cicuit on you ignition module, that year it had 3 circuits high rpm, low rom, and a idle circuit, or check you valves if there adjusted properly
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94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS
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#4 |
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New Member
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ok, here is what the car is doing. IF it sits at idle the engine doesnt move. It seems to be running very smooth. IF you just barely hit the throttle u can see the engine ever so slightly start to jerk. IF u drive the car, it starts to try to die a small amount at take off. When u finally hit 5th gear, say your doing 45 or 50ish, it doesnt want to pull because it is missing very prominently at that speed and around 1.3 to 1.8k rpm. ONCE u get up to say like 60 it smooths out some. I cant say its still not doing it but as you said the engine is turning soo much faster I cant feel it as much. It does smell a little rich to me. It doesnt seem to be doing well at all on gasoline although ive not had a chance to extensively test what kind of mpg it is gonna get. I'd think it should be around 16/22 city / highway. I'd bet its not even 10 / 16 right now. I run trouble codes and only get code 12 so that is a dead end. I'm not sure this is something I can pin point. You guys know about what it costs to get it put on a machine to find out whats going on? Or if any one else has any ideas please let me know.. ty in advance.
ps. the plugs are new.. they WERE however put in in 02 but i dont think they even have 1k miles on them pss. the plug wires probably have about 5k on them as well as the cap. Last edited by R4lN; 08-21-2008 at 12:28 AM. |
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#5 |
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New Member
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I did some internet research last night and ran a simple test this morning on the egr valve. I just unplugged it, taped off the hose, and took it for a drive. The kicking , bucking, and engine trying to stall when im taking off is completely gone. The car makes gear transitions much smoother now. I'm not going to say that that was my entire problem, but its running 100 percent better now. I imagine I need a new valve now. I think im going to go on a component replacing spree changing one piece at a time real soon.
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#6 |
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tisk... tisk... thats the ignorant way of "fixing" a car...
__________________
94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS
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#7 |
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Senior Member
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I believe that code 12 is the standard default code on the PCM cars...or it could be 14. I'm not at home right now (in Alabama) so I don't have access to my Haines Manual that has the codes broken down. If it was an EGR problem it should have thrown a code like 34 or 36 I believe (again, I can't remember exactly without my book). Again, why your car reacted that way when you unplugged the EGR...I have no idea, but if that's the fix...great.
You do; however, want to steer clear of just doing a part replacing spree because you may not solve the problem for a long while that way if at all. HTH...
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#8 |
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New Member
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Hey guys you totally have me misunderstood. First of all.. code 12 is the standard code that tells me that the computer trouble coding is working. Secondly, I have a factory service manual and I do troubleshoot things. Thirdly, what I meant by a part replacing spree is this. The car has been sitting for almost 10 years. That means Summer, Winter, wind, and rain over and over again. Furthermore, it means that every single part under that hood has taken a beating because of expansion, contraction, oxidation, and in many ways, just things drying out that "should" stay moist. An example is the fuel system, Injectors , tbi . seals.. etc..... SOO when I say im going on a part replacing spree.. it doesn't mean I'm doing it to "search" for a problem.. It means the car needs a makeover. As for the EGR valve. it was bad. it was stuck 1/3 of the way open all of the time. My way of thinking is that it isn't ignorant to replace parts that if they arent broken, they are "on their way" to being broken real soon. My brakes dont have to be rubbing metal to metal before I replace them. :P I can do it when the brake indicators start squeeling and it will be just fine.
Ps. I do intend on taking it to a garage and having the emissions tested to see how efficient it is running and if I need to fix anything in particular ASAP. Last edited by R4lN; 08-27-2008 at 03:51 AM. |
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#9 |
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New Member
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Strc09 you said." Again, why your car reacted that way when you unplugged the EGR...I have no idea, but if that's the fix...great".
It acted that way because an open egr valve at idle and specific loads is like having a major system vacuum leak. I simply plugged off the hose that feeds exhaust into the intake manifold which didnt give it the opportunity to act as if it had a vacuum leak.
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