LPE and noob question - F-Body Online

AlanReed · 02-16-2008, 09:49 PM

Hey everyone. I am new so bare with me. I just bought an 02' Ws6. The body is perfect but the engine has 130,000 and has an odd tick. I got the car for the body mostly (got it for 6,000). My question is should I buy a new crate, try and rebuild the current motor, or get a 383 plus heads/cam from LPE.

Lingenfelter looks pretty legit, but I am not sure if they are expensive because of just tuning or if their products are good. Can you guys help a noob out? Thanks!

Rocket 442 · 02-16-2008, 10:17 PM

Hey Alan, welcome to FBO.

I'm not the most up to date with LPE, so I'l let someone else answer, but welcome to the site.

FirebirdPhil · 02-16-2008, 11:50 PM

Welcome. What to do with the engine should be based on how much you're willing to sink into it and what your plans are for the car- daily driver, strip car, auto-x, etc.

phanTAm · 02-17-2008, 01:09 AM

Hey wats up man? um seeing how its a 2002 and it has 130,000 miles on it, the engine is probably gotten the balls beat of off it. so id get a new crate engine, it would be cheaper that way and easier than trying to rebuild it, just pull the old one out and throw the new one in.

phanTAm,,, peaCe

AlanReed · 02-17-2008, 02:13 AM

Alright, thanks for the input so far. A bit more about plans/money to invest.
I just Commissioned into the Air Force and got my LT loan. I bought the car and I plan on spending about 10,000 on the motor, hopefully having some left over for tranny work, but I understand if not. I would like the car to be streetable, but it will be a garage car...hopeing for high tens to low 11's. Does that help?

SpecialK · 02-17-2008, 06:52 AM

I dunno 2002 and 100K makes it sound like it was a Daily Driver. If everything is stock do some compression tests and if the pressure looks good and it doesn't consume much oil (a quart per change or so) your looking at a good engine that honestly doesn't need taken apart. Heads cam and full exhaust will net you high 300 to the wheels easy, for about 3500 at the worst. From there you can either go boost, or spray. And spend the rest in a bombproof drivetrain and some nice wheels so it doesn't spit it's guts out when you punch it. Or spin it's ass off.

joelster · 02-17-2008, 10:06 AM

Whoa, whoa, whoa. Are you SURE the motor is shot? I've seen quite a few oddball parts in my day make a "tick" under the hood. Could be a simple exhaust manifold gasket, or something stupid like that. Try this first. Take off your serpentine belt, and then start the car for 20 seconds or so. This will eliminate a bad bearing in the alternator, a/c system, power sterring pump, water pump, tensioner pulley, etc. Do NOT run it for longer than a minute, because the water pump is not flowing coolant. If the tick is still there with the belt off, then re-install the belt and dig a little further. Take off the valve covers and have a look-see at the valve springs. You may find a busted one, which could cause a tick. If not grab each pushrod and try to wiggle them. If you find one with a noticeable gap, you could have a collapsed lifter, which would cause a tick.

For an exhaust manifold tick, you should be able to tell which side of the motor the tick is coming from. When you have the side narrowed down, try to feel around the port for gases escaping. This is not easy on a 4th gen, don't burn your hands. You can kill each cylinder on the side you hear the tick from by unplugging the coil pack wire (use a glove). If it is indeed an exhaust gasket tick, it WILL NOT tick if you kill the spark to the cylinder. Just unplug it long enough to verify if the tick goes away. Hope this helps.

jester77 · 02-17-2008, 10:23 AM

welcome to the site...

Quote:

Originally Posted by joelster

Whoa, whoa, whoa. Are you SURE the motor is shot? I've seen quite a few oddball parts in my day make a "tick" under the hood. Could be a simple exhaust manifold gasket, or something stupid like that. Try this first. Take off your serpentine belt, and then start the car for 20 seconds or so. This will eliminate a bad bearing in the alternator, a/c system, power sterring pump, water pump, tensioner pulley, etc. Do NOT run it for longer than a minute, because the water pump is not flowing coolant. If the tick is still there with the belt off, then re-install the belt and dig a little further. Take off the valve covers and have a look-see at the valve springs. You may find a busted one, which could cause a tick. If not grab each pushrod and try to wiggle them. If you find one with a noticeable gap, you could have a collapsed lifter, which would cause a tick.

For an exhaust manifold tick, you should be able to tell which side of the motor the tick is coming from. When you have the side narrowed down, try to feel around the port for gases escaping. This is not easy on a 4th gen, don't burn your hands. You can kill each cylinder on the side you hear the tick from by unplugging the coil pack wire (use a glove). If it is indeed an exhaust gasket tick, it WILL NOT tick if you kill the spark to the cylinder. Just unplug it long enough to verify if the tick goes away. Hope this helps.

I would definitely start here first, joelster knows his shit well... then go from there. gl

FirebirdPhil · 02-17-2008, 10:38 AM

joelster gets +1 for that

AlanReed · 02-17-2008, 01:36 PM

I will begin the teardown and let you guys know whats up. Thanks for the welcomes and VERY quick responces.