wow am i more than ELATED i just went back to the track AGAIN and i ran the best time ive ever did so far i used your peoples advice and man what a world of difference!!! i cant contain myself this is sadly but happily the fastest car ive owned (ownly 19) i did a 13.38 @ 105 mph

what i had done since the last post was i got the eibach drag launch kit different spring with an airbag for the right rear and set it at 13 psi was the best setting with tires percisely dial in at 19 psi had subframe connectors put in ( the weld in style) a front tower brace and swap my 3.42 rear axle in i dont feel like a pathetic looser makIing kinda of a lot of power and doing worse than stock 1/4 mile times

THANKS GUYS GREAT ADVICE IT IS LIKE A TOTALLY DIFFERENT CAR!!!!!!!!!!!! AND EVEN CORNERS A LITTLE BETTER!

And I Dropped My Launch Speed Sown To 3300 And Gradually Engage The Clutch (relatively Speeking This Is Drag Racing Not Grandma Driving) Rather Than Just 4000 And "dumping The Clutch"

just to educate you guys who havent seen my previous post i last ran only a 14.051 @ 102 and was spinning my tires "mickey thompson et street radials" pretty much all the way thru 1st gear even after doing a nice smokey burnout!!!

__________________
94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS

Nice, good to see the times picking up. Don't forget to edit your timeslip info here now.

__________________
Andy
▌1966 Oldsmobile Cutlass F-85 Deluxe
455cid F2 Block | Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads & ARP Bolt Kit | Mondello JM 22-25-10 Cam - 274/280 .512/.523 | Harland Sharp 1.6 Ratio Full Roller Rockers | Edelbrock Modified Performer Intake
▌1995 Chevy Camaro - Slow
My Cars are USDM, it's like JDM in Japan; Crazy Eh?

Got a Myspace? Friend our F-Body Online Account

Not bad times at all for a N/A 3.8, I cant wait until I can get my car to the track again. Too bad I dont have the money at the moment to fix it if I break it. So i've gotta be patient.

__________________

the last i checked it was an LT1 V8 under the hood unless 2 possibilities A) you swap out my motor and i didnt notice it or B) i need glasses...

i dont mean to take this seriously but not sure if its a joke or you misread my data?

__________________
94' Z28: #07-503-8 COMP CAMS CAMSHAFT. HOOKER HEADERS & CROSSFLOW NO CAT,11:1 COMPR MICKEY THOMSON E/T DRAGS, 370HP/410FTLBS

LOL, I think he misread it. I think your car has 12's in it just as it sits. Lets get it there. Do these things before you head to the track:

1.Pump the front tires up rock hard, like 55psi.
2.Remove your front sway bar, don't just disconnect the end links, take it right out. It's almost 15lbs off of the nose.
3.Clean the interior, anything loose that isn't needed. Take out the rear seats and seatbelts.
4.Fill it up with premium gas, then disconnect the battery for more than 30 seconds. If you run shitty gas there is chance it will detonate (knock), your computer will remember this and pull timing. By disconnecting the battery it will reset itself.

Hardcore stuff: Hard to remove but NOONE will notice:

5. Remove front bumper. Under the rubber nose piece is a 20lb heavy metal bumper and some honeycomb looking plastic. It is extra weight in the WORST possible place. Obviously your car won't be as safe. Try not to rear-end anyone.
6. Remove rear bumper. Same deal out back, it's like 19lbs.
7. Remove sound deadening. Your car will be louder, this is your call. I took out my entire carpet, scraped all of it off and then re-installed the carpet, except for the very back piece which covers the hatch area. I probably removed 30lbs, easy.
8. Remove dash matting. Under the dash is a heavy rubbery mat that is conformed to the firewall. You will have to cut it out in pieces to get it out because the wiring harness and other braces snake around it. It is an easy 10-15lbs total.
9. Remove door bars. Again, this is your call. If you get t-boned, you'll get hurt. Each weighs 10lbs or so.

Stuff that is worth it but costs money:

10. Lightweight battery. I have an Oddysey 680. It weighs exactly 14lbs on the nose. My stock battery was like 36lbs. That is weight taken off of the nose 22lbs for $135.00 . DO NOT get one of those rear-mount battery kits whatever anyone tells you. The kits add about 15-20lbs with the heavy ass cables, on/off switches, etc..plus you can't run a small battery, you have to run a big battery.
11. Skinnies up front. 15x3.5 welds. You can find them at ANY swap meet I guarantee it. For tires you can skimp out and get 165/85r/15's from tirerack.com, they are a stock VW beetle tire for $30.00 each or get some light drag tires from Moroso for about $110.00 each. Here's a weight comparison:
Stock salad shooter with 245/50/16= around 50lbs
15x3.5 weld with VW beetle tire=around 29lbs
15x3.5 weld with Moroso bias ply= around 20lbs
If you go the weld/Moroso combo thats 60lbs off of the nose, you will lift a tire on the launch

Hardcore stuff that people will notice:
12. Remove A/C stuff. Obviously if you like your A/C don't do this. You will need to buy the A/C delete pulley to properly do this.
13. Remove cruise control module, easy to do.
14. Remove ABS. Not so easy to do. You will need to fabricate a new block to connect the lines, then re-bleed the system. It's doable with a little skill, and it really cleans up the engine bay.

I'll add a bunch more as I remember them.

__________________


1994 Z28 Black heads/cam th350 drag car
1995 Z28 Teal 'Vert bolt-ons 6-speed cruiser

Yes, I misread it, for some reason I thought you had a v6 lol.

__________________

Joelster......thats some good stuff, but dont you think that some different shocks and frame stiffeners should be on the list too?
possibly along with some airbox, air filter and mass air sensor mods...removing the honeycomb in your MAS makes a big difference if done correctly. basically your car is running with a mask over its mouth, if you can help it breathe it will run alot faster. intake/ exhaust isnt just for noise, it help the engine run