You’ll need the following…

Tools:

• Wire stripper/Cutter/Crimper (18ga)
• 7mm socket w/extension or screwdriver-handle-type-adapter
• Flathead screwdriver
• Lighter/Heat gun (if using heat-shrink tubing)

Materials:

• One 12V automotive switch rated at least 15A @ 12VDC (if lighted, you’ll need to add a ground wire)
• 4 to 6 feet of 18ga wire
• 2 feet of black 16ga wire (if using lighted switch)
• Crimp connectors for 18ga wire – 2 butt connectors, 2 female spade connectors
• Crimp connectors for 16ga wire (if using lighted switch) – 1 quick splice, 1 female spade connector
• Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing
• Wire loom (optional – 1/4″ to 1/2″ depending on personal preference)

There are three wires going into the factory power antenna:

1. 12V constant power (+)
2. 12V signal power (+)
3. Ground (-)

On the antenna-side, orange is 12V constant (+), green is 12V signal (+), and black is ground (-).

The orange and black wires are unimportant – what we are concerned with is the green wire (12V signal power). There is always power (orange), and ground (black) to the antenna, so what does the green wire do? Well, that green wire turns into the 18 gauge pink wire on the largest connector on the back of the headunit. When the headunit is turned on, it sends 12V power through that pink[green] wire into the antenna. The antenna senses 12V power on the green[pink] wire and uses 12V power from the orange wire to raise the antenna. When you shut off the headunit, it removes the 12V power from the pink/green wire, thus the antenna stops sensing 12V power at the green/pink wire so it uses power from the orange wire to lower the antenna (just like how it raises).

By installing a switch enabling/disabling the flow of power on the pink/green wire, you can control whether or not the antenna will receive the 12V power to raise up when the headunit is turned on. If you cut power to the pink/green wire using the switch when the headunit is on, the antenna will simply lower like normal into the down position.

If instead you install a switch on the pink/green, and instead of connecting one end to the pink wire at the headunit, you use an always-on 12V power source (cigarette lighter 12V), you can control whether the antenna is up or down, regardless of the car being on or off. I didn’t wire it this way, but theoretically you could do it.

• Start by removing the headunit to expose the area behind it. You can do this by pulling the radio bezel outward and off, then unscrewing the three 7mm bolts holding it in.
• Disconnect the headunit plugs that are clipped in, and set the headunit aside.
• Look at the largest connector on the headunit. You will see the 18ga pink wire that controls the antenna. Separate that wire from the rest of the wires and cut it, leaving a few inches on both ends so you can still hold it to crimp any connectors on & cut off & redo if necessary (you don’t want to cut).
• Crimp one butt connector on each end of the factory pink wire. On the other side of the butt connectors, crimp a length of wire from each connector and run it behind the headunit to where your switch will be (I used roughly 2 feet each).
• Crimp two female spade connectors (the kind that slide onto the switch connections securely) onto each of the two wires you just ran.
• If you want to mount it under/in the console, you’ll have to remove at least the upper console.
• The upper console is held in by the shift knob (automatics need a flathead screwdriver to pry the retaining staple out, manuals just untwist) and two 7mm bolts under the change holder inside the pocket in the center console. Lift the rear of the upper console and slide it upwards and backwards. If an automatic, you’ll want to set the E-brake and put the car into gear (D or 2 usually works) to allow the upper console to be lifted out. There are things plugged into the upper console: the shift selector light (automatic trans – just untwist counter-clockwise), ashtray light (I think? on a manual), and the cigarette lighter (squeeze and pull to remove).
• If you want to add a lighted switch, now is an easy time to add a ground by quick-splicing a black wire w/spade connector on one end to the black wire on the cigarette lighter connector. Connect the switch to the wires, and if it’s a lighted switch don’t connect power to the ground! Wrap your wires up in the wire loom, hide/mount your switch, tuck the wires-in-loom away securely so it won’t move, and reassemble. Test and enjoy!

Here is a pic of the messy wiring behind the headunit. The red arrows point to the pink wire that I cut/spliced. I ran the two lengths of 18ga wire behind the headunit and under the center console to be connected to a switch. The green arrows point to my iPod interface box that has just been hanging there without any problems (Google search for iPod2car).

The red arrows below point to the switch and the switch wiring. I spliced in a ground to the wiring in case I change the switch to one with an LED, and wrapped the three wires in a plastic cable protector sheath or two. It’s long enough to reach under the console lid, or to any other potential mounting spot. Right now the switch is wedged between the center console and the carpeting, and is easily accessible yet not easily seen. The excess wiring is wedged securely under the center console. The ends of the wires have crimp connectors covered with heatshrink tubing that simply slide onto any 12v automotive toggle switch.

This is how the switch looks from the outside. Barely visible yet easily accessible.

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Total cost was $23 for the headliner at JoAnn’s Fabrics and $17 for an 18oz can of the adhesive. One can will do a hardtop car and a T-top car or 3 T-top cars.

What you’ll need:

• Headliner Material (4.5ft)
• Spray Adhesive (18oz)
• Flat head Screwdriver
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Medium-bristled Scrub brush

Elapsed time ~ 3hrs.

This is what mine looked like forever:

So I decided to do something about it. I got myself to JoAnn’s fabric store and bought myself 4.5 feet of headliner material. I got black, cuz the grey they had was too light… so the first step is to remove almost all your interior trim…

Trunk Panels

Just lift the driver’s side one. The passenger side has the little screw things that you need to turn then pull. Be careful you don’t break the tabs up by the rear seatbelts.

Coat hooks/(Sail Panels)

The thing with these is that I couldn’t get the right angle to pull the retainer out, but when I levered it off the handle, it worked fine. you pull out that center piece and then the hook will come out with gentle pressure, but the center has to be out.

Kick panels (Remove bottom screw holding Sail Panels in)

Then that back trim panel. You need to rotate it forward over the latch pin for the back seat, then pull it out of the car.
Then the A-pillar cover and the B-pillar T-top cover if you have one.
Then the visors.

There’s a pushpin underneath the rear dome light that needs to be removed:

as well as one dead center on the ttop rail:

Now, you can take the whole headliner out. I found it easiest to back it out of the open hatch.

Here comes the fun part of stripping down the old liner. You pretty much just grab the cloth and pull while being careful not to rip up the fiberglass substrate with your fabric. Then you get to scrape/scrub the old foam off. I used a medium-bristled scrubbrush. (Too heavy damages, Too light gums up.)

You want it to be as clean as possible.

At this point you can start putting the fabric on.

I made the mistake of starting from one end and working to the other, but trust me, YOU DO NOT WANT TO DO THAT. Start in the middle, and work your way out. This will ensure that you don’t run out of material in the corners…

I used spray adhesive for this… 3M “general trim adhesive” medium strength to be specific… you just smooth the cloth over the form. Be careful on the corners- you want to have plenty of extra fabric in the corners.

*note* I managed to accidentally get adhesive overspray on the good side of the cloth. If this happens, DO NOT attempt to wipe it off. The best way to deal with it is to let it harden, then shave it off with a safety razor. I tried a 1-blade and a 2-blade, but I got the best results with my Gillette Mach-3, so I would say anything with 3+ blades will do the trick.

When you have it looking like this:

It’s time to cut the scraps off, fold the edges over, glue them down and then slit the holes for the pins and screws, the seat belts and visors if you choose to reinstall them. For all the holes, I just flipped it over and slit them from the backside.

Finally, you’ve got yourself a nice new-looking headliner to put back into your ride:

Installation is reverse of removal.

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The Edmunds.com Launch Breakthrough Award is provided annually to a vehicle that earns the highest overall score in a thorough analysis of 18 factors associated with the launch of a new vehicle, including pricing, sales, market share, dealer profit margins, incentives, consumer consideration, consumer ratings, inventory levels and residual values for all eligible vehicles. A total of 54 vehicles were eligible for the 2010 award. To be eligible, an all-new or totally redesigned vehicle had to be launched between January 1 and December 1, 2009 and must sell at a rate of at least 100 vehicles per month.

Below is the Press Release
SANTA MONICA, Calif. — June 29, 2010 — Edmunds.com, the premier online resource for automotive information, today announced that winner of the first annual Edmunds.com Launch Breakthrough Award is the Chevy Camaro.

The Edmunds.com Launch Breakthrough Award is provided annually to a vehicle that earns the highest overall score in a thorough analysis of 18 factors associated with the launch of a new vehicle, including pricing, sales, market share, dealer profit margins, incentives, consumer consideration, consumer ratings, inventory levels and residual values for all eligible vehicles. A total of 54 vehicles were eligible for the 2010 award. To be eligible, an all-new or totally redesigned vehicle had to be launched between January 1 and December 1, 2009 and must sell at a rate of at least 100 vehicles per month.

“The Launch Breakthrough Award recognizes the vehicle that had the most successful introduction of the past year,” stated Edmunds.com Senior Analyst Ray Zhou, PhD. “According to our analysis, seven of the top ten launches were domestic vehicles, and many of those new cars are still selling at an impressive rate.”

The top ten vehicle launches of the year were:

“With its highly anticipated launch, the Camaro was the clear winner, commanding premium prices, spending little time on the dealership lots and becoming one of the bestselling vehicles in its segment,” asserted Edmunds.com Senior Analyst Jessica Caldwell. “The other top-ranked vehicles in this survey did not have an historic nameplate or an established fan base, but are still overcoming tough market conditions to resonate with consumers.”

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Lets hope while they’re doing this, they also update the Engine, and lighten her up a bit too, *hint hint*.

[Souce: Autoblog]

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Some of the symptoms of a nearly clogged PCV include a rough idling engine, loss of power, oil burning, an oily air filter, decreased mpg, or blown seals.

What you’ll need:

• 10mm wrench
• Pliers
• ACDelco – CV948C (PCV valve)
  • ~$3 part

Estimated time:

• 10-15 minutes

Here’s how I initially found the issue, you can see the bottom of my MAF screen is now stained from the oil that was passing through it.

Step 1:
First locate where your PCV valve is; on the 3800 engine you can find it under this diamond shaped cover which is marked “PCV”. Use your 10mm wrench to remove this.

Step 2:
Once you remove that cover what you’ll find is the PCV valve inside a spring. Grab the spring with your pliers and the PCV valve should very easily lift right out along with the spring.

Step 3:
Simply pull the old PCV valve out from the spring, and place your new one back in. My old one was blackened and mangled, the new one is pictured below.

Step 4:
Put everything back together the way it was and you’re done!!

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Well your Big Three are the Positive Alternator Cable,(the one that bolts to the rear of the alt.) the Ground on the Block, and the Ground on the pass side Fender. Now from the factory these wires are at the most a 4 gauge. If you have a system and its drawing current from your electrical system(making your lights dim) then this will help stop that. If you run a high output alternator then you will need to upgrade your Big Three.

Things you will need for this upgrade

• 10ft 0(zero) Gauge Wire Of Your Choice
• 6 0 Gauge Ring Terminals
• Zip Ties
• 2 Side Post Battery Extenders

Doing The Upgrade

First disconnect the Negative Battery Cable followed by the Positive Battery Cable.

Now take your 10 ft 0 Gauge Wire and test fit it to your stock Big Three cables to find the length you will need, after finding the length cut the 0 Gauge Wire.

Next you want to put those Ring Connectors, and connect them to each end of your new Wire.

Now you just cut off the factory Big Three, and connect your new Big Three and your done. I did this but I just made whole new battery cables, so the pics below are a little different, but you get the point.

Pics:

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Grant Thornton director James Ricci outlined GM’s rear-wheel-drive model plans in a presentation to the Automotive Press Association Thursday afternoon, on the subject of major automakers’ move to more common, global platforms. Some concerns about the price of the platform, have made it hard to say for sure that the Camaro will be on the Alpha, but if GM can cut down costs of the platform by using other materials, or cut costs in other areas, they could potentially keep the Camaro at a competitive price with the other Pony Cars.

There are obviously many opinions about the 3.6L V6 Camaro SS. What are the positives?

• Lighter, More Nimble
• Fuel Economy
• Cost? (With the regulations and added taxes, this may be a big reason why GM is toying with a V6 SS)

The Negatives are obviously that the 3.6L is going against the camaro’s heritage. Also, if GM doesn’t give a Camaro SS that can compete with the 5.0 Coyote Mustang, you might as well kiss the Camaro name goodbye again.

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Parts:

• 1 steering wheel with radio controls (I found a ‘99 wheel)
• 1 airbag for said steering wheel (re-used mine)
• 1 SIR coil/airbag clockspring (alternatively, a column) which has wires that match the airbag AND has a separate connection for steering wheel radio controls – MUST BE COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR CARS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. If you simply use a column you should swap the lock cylinder from the old column to the new column. (I used an ‘01 SIR coil)

Tools

• Metric/standard socket set
• Torx bits/allen wrenches
• Flathead and phillips screwdrivers (two flatheads)
• A sharp metal pick of some sort (the kind you use to de-pin electrical connections)
• Snap-ring pliers
• Steering wheel removal tool
• Steering wheel lock plate removal tool
• Muscles!!

You can install steering wheel radio controls into your car assuming you have the wheel with the controls, the matching airbag, and the matching column (say you find a parts car with an intact column, wheel, and airbag).
Your car has an airbag connector and the cars wiring harness should already have a connector for steering wheel radio controls. All you need to do is add that headunit control connector either by swapping the SIR coil or swapping a whole column. I couldn’t swap columns so I did it the harder way (SIR coil). Here are instructions on how to swap the SIR coil:

1. Remove the airbag
   Pull the airbag fuse or disconnect the battery, and wait 10 minutes for the power to drain from the system. The airbag system can retain power for up to 10 minutes so this is a very important step! The airbag is held onto the steering wheel via two T-30 torx bolts on the back side of the wheel. You may have to turn the key to RUN and unlock the steering wheel to access the torx bolts. Loosen the bolts (you do not have to remove completely) and the airbag should easily come out. Pull the plastic safety retainer clip and then pull the yellow connector straight out of the airbag.
2. Remove the steering wheel
   Make sure the wheel is dead-center and the column is locked before continuing! When the column is locked in the dead-center position, loosen the nut holding the wheel on but don’t remove it entirely. Follow the horn wires to the white plastic spring thing. Twist counter-clockwise and pull and it will come out. Use the steering wheel puller tool to remove the steering wheel. Remove the tool and the nut. Once removed, set it aside (you can attempt to break it in half with your muscles AFTER you install the new wheel). The SIR coil is now exposed. Notice that the little arrows on the front of the SIR coil are lined up with each other.
3. Remove the knee panel (yes, that’s right)
   Now the steering wheel is out of the way and there’s more room to work. Use the phillips-head screwdriver and a 7mm socket to remove the knee panel from under the column. You can unclip the electrical connection to the hatch release button with your fingernail.
4. Disconnect SIR coil electrical connector
   With the knee panel removed, you can now see the bottom of the column and where all the wires come out. The large yellow wire and yellow connector is what you need to disconnect. It has an orange safety retainer clip so disconnect that first. Once the yellow plug is disconnected, you’ll need to remove the yellow plastic part of the plug or you won’t be able to slide it through the column without major disassembly. If you inspect it you’ll find that if you insert something small like that pick that I mentioned earlier, or a small flathead screwdriver, you can slide the yellow outer shell off of the black connector. Do so.
5. Remove column electrical wire protector
   There is a frosted clear plastic shield under the column protecting the wiring. You’ll have to remove it. Squeeze the tabs closest to the front of the car and pull it towards the front of the car. It should slide out (but not easily – this is where muscles come in).
6. Pull SIR coil
   Push the SIR coil in and use the snap-ring pliers to pull the retainer ring. If you simply don’t have snap-ring pliers you will have to get creative, but REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-INSTALL THE RETAINER. Set it aside in a safe place where you won’t lose it! Once the retainer is removed you can pull the SIR coil out a bit and let it hang by the electrical wire. If you followed step 5 you should be able to work the electrical wire all the way through the column (you’ll have to go underneath the column and help guide the wire as it goes along) until it hits the turn signal cam or lock plate. If you are lucky you can remove the wire without removing the lock plate or turn signal cam.
7. Remove steering wheel lock plate
   Use the lock-plate remover tool to compress the lock-plate into the column, then use whatever tools available to remove the retaining ring and the flimsy metal shield ring thing. Set those aside in a safe place where you won’t lose them. Remove the lock plate removal tool and pull the lock plate. A plastic plate thing with a tube should come out with the lock plate. Set both of those aside in a safe place as well.
8. Loosen turn signal cam
   You’ll have to loosen the turn signal cam (the gear things that rotate when you use the turn signals). Unscrew the phillips-head screw holding the assembly to the turn signal stalk and set it aside in a safe place. Now use a torx bit or an allen wrench and remove the three torx screws holding the assembly in place. You may have to rotate the assembly to get at all three torx screws. Set them aside in a safe place. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to remove the Hazard light switch assembly from the outside, and set the pieces aside in a safe place (be careful with the spring!).
9. Remove SIR coil
   Now that the turn signal cam is loose, you should be able to rotate it counter-clockwise and finish pulling the old SIR coil.
10. Install new SIR coil wiring
    Grab your new SIR coil and remove the yellow plastic part of the airbag connector on the under-column side so you can thread it through the column. Rotate the turn signal cam counter-clockwise and lift it up if you have to to thread one of the wires through the column, and after you are finished with that, do the remaining one. You may have to adjust the column tilt to get the wires through. I found that angled almost as high as it would go worked good. Go underneath and pull on the wires to make sure there is not any extra slack in the column.
11. Connect SIR coil wiring under column
    Plug in both of the wires you just painstakingly ran.
12. Reinstall column electrical wire protector
    Remember how hard it was to remove the wire protector shield? It’s harder now. Reinstall it by sliding it back in place just like how you removed it. It is necessary because you don’t want any of the column wires rubbing on metal and shorting out.
13. Reinstall turn signal cam
    Screw in the three torx bolts and reconnect the turn signal stalk. I had a problem with the turn signal stalk connector becoming disconnected so I had to use a screwdriver from the outside next to the turn signal stalk to push the connector into it’s clip while holding the connector from inside the column. It’s hard to explain so you’ll have to figure it out when you get to that point. It is important and this step does take quite a bit of time if you aren’t lucky. Reinstall the Hazard switch too.
14. Reinstall lock plate
    Install is reverse of removal. It goes on one-way and the plastic piece has to go on with it!
15. Install new SIR coil
    Install is reverse of removal. When you set it in place on the shaft, go underneath and tug on the wires to make sure there is no more slack. MAKE SURE THE ARROWS ARE LINED UP ON THE FACE OF THE SIR COIL!!:
    Center a clockspring with no centering window and a spring service lock by holding the clockspring with the back side up. Depress the service lock and turn the coil in the direction the arrow points until the coil stops. Then, turn the coil 2 1/2 times in the opposite direction. Engage the spring service lock at the locking tabs.
16. Reinstall knee panel
    Install is reverse of removal. Make sure the top clips are in!
17. Install new steering wheel
    Place the new steering wheel on (dead-center) and tighten down the nut. Insert the white spring thing back into the hole and push/turn clockwise to lock it in place (this is for your horn). Connect the steering wheel headunit control plug.
18. Install airbag
    Installation is reverse of removal!
19. Test/Rejoice/Facepalm
    Put the airbag fuse back in and/or reconnect the battery, and test out the controls. Mine worked but the light bulbs were dead. I will desolder the bulbs and replace them with LEDs in the future.

Notes:

This may not be possible on 98 or earlier models. You need to check underneath the dashboard to see if your car has the appropriate electrical connector for the controls. If it does not, then you will have to run new electrical wires behind the dash.

The wheel without controls is lighter weight than the wheel with controls. I didn’t get a chance to weigh each but it feels noticeable. The wheel with controls feels sturdier and more balanced than the wheel without controls.

While I was in there I sanded/filed/cut down the little plastic bits which control the turn signal stalk “feel”. I took a long time and got it sanded smooth, then re-applied some grease. The turn signal stalk no longer feels like it will break but on the flip side it now feels worn out, probably like a $2 hooker. I later found that the best way to relieve the tension was to bend the spring assembly away from the plastic contact area, therefore reducing the pressure on the plastic and reducing the amount of effort it takes to turn the stalk.

You can buy a brand new turn signal cam assembly in the HELP! parts section of your local Autozone/Pep Boys/Kragen/etc. if yours is broken or you filed it down like an idiot (read: me).

The SIR coil is also called an “airbag clockspring” but not according to GM, who will always refer to it as an SIR coil.

Pics:

And now for the extra stuff that I don’t recommend doing…

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Parts Needed:

• #74 Bulb (#37 and #73 will also fit)
• Electrical Tape (to aide in removal of burnt out bulb)
• 9/32 (7mm) socket wrench/driver
• Flat-Head Screwdriver

Approx. install time: 15-20 minutes

Steps:

Before you start taking anything apart, put your key in the slot, turn it so it doesn’t turn the car on, but so that it turns your stereo on and you know that it reacted. In short, turn the key in the ignition to the RUN position. Make sure you pull your emergency brake up, and then switch your shifter into the “1″ position.

Like so:

Now with your shifter in 1st gear, look on the front side of the shifter knob that faces the windshield. You should see a big heavy-ish staple thing. Take a flat head screwdriver and gently pry it out. Put that in a safe place. The shifter should slip right off, and a white plastic thing should be there.

Now, open up your center console, pull your change holder out.

You should see this:

Those two bolts need to come off. Use your 7mm socket or 9/32 socket to remove the bolts and store these somewhere safe.

Pull up with a slight firmness and your center console should lift up. Make sure your car is in “1st” and not in Park.

Top part that you lift off:

And where the bulb was in my car (circled in red):

The wire with the bulb attached in my car had been pushed under the console to be squished between my seat and the console. The BLACK and WHITE wires are they key here. The wires should be protected by a black plastic hose. Pull back on the hosing to so that the bulb is visible for you if necessary. I didn’t have to replace the bulb in mine, but if you have to replace yours, it’s quite simple.

Break off some electrical tape, squish it on both sides of the bulb, and pull, so as not to break the bulb while still in the socket. The bulb sizes that will work are 37, 73, and 74. LEDs that are made to fit this size socket will also plug and play.

After you’ve replaced the bulb, insert it into this hole:

Assembly is reverse of removal. After light is secured into it’s housing, replace console and make it sure it clips in. Tighten bolts in console and replace shifter knob. Secure knob with staple.

Don’t forget to test your light!

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