Grant Thornton director James Ricci outlined GM’s rear-wheel-drive model plans in a presentation to the Automotive Press Association Thursday afternoon, on the subject of major automakers’ move to more common, global platforms. Some concerns about the price of the platform, have made it hard to say for sure that the Camaro will be on the Alpha, but if GM can cut down costs of the platform by using other materials, or cut costs in other areas, they could potentially keep the Camaro at a competitive price with the other Pony Cars.

There are obviously many opinions about the 3.6L V6 Camaro SS. What are the positives?

• Lighter, More Nimble
• Fuel Economy
• Cost? (With the regulations and added taxes, this may be a big reason why GM is toying with a V6 SS)

The Negatives are obviously that the 3.6L is going against the camaro’s heritage. Also, if GM doesn’t give a Camaro SS that can compete with the 5.0 Coyote Mustang, you might as well kiss the Camaro name goodbye again.

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Parts:

• 1 steering wheel with radio controls (I found a ‘99 wheel)
• 1 airbag for said steering wheel (re-used mine)
• 1 SIR coil/airbag clockspring (alternatively, a column) which has wires that match the airbag AND has a separate connection for steering wheel radio controls – MUST BE COMPATIBLE WITH YOUR CARS ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS. If you simply use a column you should swap the lock cylinder from the old column to the new column. (I used an ‘01 SIR coil)

Tools

• Metric/standard socket set
• Torx bits/allen wrenches
• Flathead and phillips screwdrivers (two flatheads)
• A sharp metal pick of some sort (the kind you use to de-pin electrical connections)
• Snap-ring pliers
• Steering wheel removal tool
• Steering wheel lock plate removal tool
• Muscles!!

You can install steering wheel radio controls into your car assuming you have the wheel with the controls, the matching airbag, and the matching column (say you find a parts car with an intact column, wheel, and airbag).
Your car has an airbag connector and the cars wiring harness should already have a connector for steering wheel radio controls. All you need to do is add that headunit control connector either by swapping the SIR coil or swapping a whole column. I couldn’t swap columns so I did it the harder way (SIR coil). Here are instructions on how to swap the SIR coil:

1. Remove the airbag
   Pull the airbag fuse or disconnect the battery, and wait 10 minutes for the power to drain from the system. The airbag system can retain power for up to 10 minutes so this is a very important step! The airbag is held onto the steering wheel via two T-30 torx bolts on the back side of the wheel. You may have to turn the key to RUN and unlock the steering wheel to access the torx bolts. Loosen the bolts (you do not have to remove completely) and the airbag should easily come out. Pull the plastic safety retainer clip and then pull the yellow connector straight out of the airbag.
2. Remove the steering wheel
   Make sure the wheel is dead-center and the column is locked before continuing! When the column is locked in the dead-center position, loosen the nut holding the wheel on but don’t remove it entirely. Follow the horn wires to the white plastic spring thing. Twist counter-clockwise and pull and it will come out. Use the steering wheel puller tool to remove the steering wheel. Remove the tool and the nut. Once removed, set it aside (you can attempt to break it in half with your muscles AFTER you install the new wheel). The SIR coil is now exposed. Notice that the little arrows on the front of the SIR coil are lined up with each other.
3. Remove the knee panel (yes, that’s right)
   Now the steering wheel is out of the way and there’s more room to work. Use the phillips-head screwdriver and a 7mm socket to remove the knee panel from under the column. You can unclip the electrical connection to the hatch release button with your fingernail.
4. Disconnect SIR coil electrical connector
   With the knee panel removed, you can now see the bottom of the column and where all the wires come out. The large yellow wire and yellow connector is what you need to disconnect. It has an orange safety retainer clip so disconnect that first. Once the yellow plug is disconnected, you’ll need to remove the yellow plastic part of the plug or you won’t be able to slide it through the column without major disassembly. If you inspect it you’ll find that if you insert something small like that pick that I mentioned earlier, or a small flathead screwdriver, you can slide the yellow outer shell off of the black connector. Do so.
5. Remove column electrical wire protector
   There is a frosted clear plastic shield under the column protecting the wiring. You’ll have to remove it. Squeeze the tabs closest to the front of the car and pull it towards the front of the car. It should slide out (but not easily – this is where muscles come in).
6. Pull SIR coil
   Push the SIR coil in and use the snap-ring pliers to pull the retainer ring. If you simply don’t have snap-ring pliers you will have to get creative, but REMEMBER YOU WILL HAVE TO RE-INSTALL THE RETAINER. Set it aside in a safe place where you won’t lose it! Once the retainer is removed you can pull the SIR coil out a bit and let it hang by the electrical wire. If you followed step 5 you should be able to work the electrical wire all the way through the column (you’ll have to go underneath the column and help guide the wire as it goes along) until it hits the turn signal cam or lock plate. If you are lucky you can remove the wire without removing the lock plate or turn signal cam.
7. Remove steering wheel lock plate
   Use the lock-plate remover tool to compress the lock-plate into the column, then use whatever tools available to remove the retaining ring and the flimsy metal shield ring thing. Set those aside in a safe place where you won’t lose them. Remove the lock plate removal tool and pull the lock plate. A plastic plate thing with a tube should come out with the lock plate. Set both of those aside in a safe place as well.
8. Loosen turn signal cam
   You’ll have to loosen the turn signal cam (the gear things that rotate when you use the turn signals). Unscrew the phillips-head screw holding the assembly to the turn signal stalk and set it aside in a safe place. Now use a torx bit or an allen wrench and remove the three torx screws holding the assembly in place. You may have to rotate the assembly to get at all three torx screws. Set them aside in a safe place. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to remove the Hazard light switch assembly from the outside, and set the pieces aside in a safe place (be careful with the spring!).
9. Remove SIR coil
   Now that the turn signal cam is loose, you should be able to rotate it counter-clockwise and finish pulling the old SIR coil.
10. Install new SIR coil wiring
    Grab your new SIR coil and remove the yellow plastic part of the airbag connector on the under-column side so you can thread it through the column. Rotate the turn signal cam counter-clockwise and lift it up if you have to to thread one of the wires through the column, and after you are finished with that, do the remaining one. You may have to adjust the column tilt to get the wires through. I found that angled almost as high as it would go worked good. Go underneath and pull on the wires to make sure there is not any extra slack in the column.
11. Connect SIR coil wiring under column
    Plug in both of the wires you just painstakingly ran.
12. Reinstall column electrical wire protector
    Remember how hard it was to remove the wire protector shield? It’s harder now. Reinstall it by sliding it back in place just like how you removed it. It is necessary because you don’t want any of the column wires rubbing on metal and shorting out.
13. Reinstall turn signal cam
    Screw in the three torx bolts and reconnect the turn signal stalk. I had a problem with the turn signal stalk connector becoming disconnected so I had to use a screwdriver from the outside next to the turn signal stalk to push the connector into it’s clip while holding the connector from inside the column. It’s hard to explain so you’ll have to figure it out when you get to that point. It is important and this step does take quite a bit of time if you aren’t lucky. Reinstall the Hazard switch too.
14. Reinstall lock plate
    Install is reverse of removal. It goes on one-way and the plastic piece has to go on with it!
15. Install new SIR coil
    Install is reverse of removal. When you set it in place on the shaft, go underneath and tug on the wires to make sure there is no more slack. MAKE SURE THE ARROWS ARE LINED UP ON THE FACE OF THE SIR COIL!!:
    Center a clockspring with no centering window and a spring service lock by holding the clockspring with the back side up. Depress the service lock and turn the coil in the direction the arrow points until the coil stops. Then, turn the coil 2 1/2 times in the opposite direction. Engage the spring service lock at the locking tabs.
16. Reinstall knee panel
    Install is reverse of removal. Make sure the top clips are in!
17. Install new steering wheel
    Place the new steering wheel on (dead-center) and tighten down the nut. Insert the white spring thing back into the hole and push/turn clockwise to lock it in place (this is for your horn). Connect the steering wheel headunit control plug.
18. Install airbag
    Installation is reverse of removal!
19. Test/Rejoice/Facepalm
    Put the airbag fuse back in and/or reconnect the battery, and test out the controls. Mine worked but the light bulbs were dead. I will desolder the bulbs and replace them with LEDs in the future.

Notes:

This may not be possible on 98 or earlier models. You need to check underneath the dashboard to see if your car has the appropriate electrical connector for the controls. If it does not, then you will have to run new electrical wires behind the dash.

The wheel without controls is lighter weight than the wheel with controls. I didn’t get a chance to weigh each but it feels noticeable. The wheel with controls feels sturdier and more balanced than the wheel without controls.

While I was in there I sanded/filed/cut down the little plastic bits which control the turn signal stalk “feel”. I took a long time and got it sanded smooth, then re-applied some grease. The turn signal stalk no longer feels like it will break but on the flip side it now feels worn out, probably like a $2 hooker. I later found that the best way to relieve the tension was to bend the spring assembly away from the plastic contact area, therefore reducing the pressure on the plastic and reducing the amount of effort it takes to turn the stalk.

You can buy a brand new turn signal cam assembly in the HELP! parts section of your local Autozone/Pep Boys/Kragen/etc. if yours is broken or you filed it down like an idiot (read: me).

The SIR coil is also called an “airbag clockspring” but not according to GM, who will always refer to it as an SIR coil.

Pics:

And now for the extra stuff that I don’t recommend doing…

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Parts Needed:

• #74 Bulb (#37 and #73 will also fit)
• Electrical Tape (to aide in removal of burnt out bulb)
• 9/32 (7mm) socket wrench/driver
• Flat-Head Screwdriver

Approx. install time: 15-20 minutes

Steps:

Before you start taking anything apart, put your key in the slot, turn it so it doesn’t turn the car on, but so that it turns your stereo on and you know that it reacted. In short, turn the key in the ignition to the RUN position. Make sure you pull your emergency brake up, and then switch your shifter into the “1″ position.

Like so:

Now with your shifter in 1st gear, look on the front side of the shifter knob that faces the windshield. You should see a big heavy-ish staple thing. Take a flat head screwdriver and gently pry it out. Put that in a safe place. The shifter should slip right off, and a white plastic thing should be there.

Now, open up your center console, pull your change holder out.

You should see this:

Those two bolts need to come off. Use your 7mm socket or 9/32 socket to remove the bolts and store these somewhere safe.

Pull up with a slight firmness and your center console should lift up. Make sure your car is in “1st” and not in Park.

Top part that you lift off:

And where the bulb was in my car (circled in red):

The wire with the bulb attached in my car had been pushed under the console to be squished between my seat and the console. The BLACK and WHITE wires are they key here. The wires should be protected by a black plastic hose. Pull back on the hosing to so that the bulb is visible for you if necessary. I didn’t have to replace the bulb in mine, but if you have to replace yours, it’s quite simple.

Break off some electrical tape, squish it on both sides of the bulb, and pull, so as not to break the bulb while still in the socket. The bulb sizes that will work are 37, 73, and 74. LEDs that are made to fit this size socket will also plug and play.

After you’ve replaced the bulb, insert it into this hole:

Assembly is reverse of removal. After light is secured into it’s housing, replace console and make it sure it clips in. Tighten bolts in console and replace shifter knob. Secure knob with staple.

Don’t forget to test your light!

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Also, Tomorrow Stevenson Race Group will also have a 2010 Camaro in the Daytona Rolex 24 Hours. This is a very long and demanding 24 hour Endurance race. We’ll see how well the Camaro holds up in its first year of competition.

http://www.stevensonmotorsports.com/

http://momentumracegroup.com/

http://www.tcmotorsports.net/

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Stevenson Motorsports To Field Four New Camaros In 2010 Season

Two cars in the Grand-Am Rolex and two in the Continental Tire Series

When the 2010 racing season opens at Daytona International Speedway at the end of January, Stevenson Motorsports will introduce four brand new Chevrolet Camaro race cars.  At the January test days – ‘The Roar Before The 24’ – the team will debut two new Pratt & Miller built Camaro GT.Rs for the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series presented by Crown Royal Cask No.16.  They will also compete in the Grand-Am Continental Tire Sportscar Challenge Series with a pair of Riley Technologies built Camaro GS.Rs.

All four cars – and the drivers – will be introduced to the media at Daytona International Speedway during the “Roar Before The 24″ test days to take place from January 8th through the 10th.

For fans of the Chevrolet marque, the return of the Camaro could not be a more welcome sight as the cold days of winter temporarily give way to a weekend of Florida sunshine.  With the proven performance of the Stevenson Team – led by Team Manager Mike Johnson – preparing the cars, those fans should experience plenty of warm moments throughout the entire season.

Johnson is optimistic that the pieces of the new racing puzzle are coming together and will, in the end, present a picture of success.  ”I really have no idea how we went from running one car last season to now having four cars seemingly overnight, but the good news is that we have two seasons of experience with the Pratt & Miller chassis and we have the VIR race and a bunch of testing behind us with the Riley GS car.  I feel we have a good knowledge base to work on.  Unfortunately, we didn’t receive the 3rd and 4th car until right before Christmas, so the crew has been working many late nights in preparation for the Daytona Test.”

Andrew Davis complimented the crew on their dedication to preparing for what promises to be an exciting season. “I can’t say enough about the effort that the Stevenson Motorsports crew – along with everyone up at Pratt & Miller – has put forth to get the new cars ready for the first test of the new year.  They have worked tirelessly through the holidays to complete the VinSolutions/BryanMark Financial No. 57 Camaro GT.R, and I am looking forward to getting behind the wheel at Daytona.

“This commitment to success extends all the way to the top of the organization, as evident by securing Jan Magnussen’s services for the Rolex 24.  It’s going to be a great start to the 2010 season!”

Robin Liddell is eagerly anticipating a good run at the 2010 GT Championship for the new Camaro and he feels the first race at Daytona will work in the team’s favor for two solid reasons.  ”First, I couldn’t think of a better driver to join Andrew and me than Jan Magnussen.  The man has an incredible record of performance and is just an incredibly quick driver.  Next, I feel the aerodynamics of the new Camaro will help us on the banking at Daytona.  We gave away some top speed there with the Pontiac and I am hoping the new wider and lower Camaro will help us gain some of the top speed we had been giving up in the past.”

The rapid expansion of the Stevenson operation comes with a challenge to manage all the resources it takes to compete in two series with four cars and eight plus drivers.  Johnson provided an overview of what it takes to unite and direct those resources into a straight line aimed to bring the team success.

“We’ve been very fortunate to get some great people that have all worked together.  Our crew has grown from 10 people to 27 just to manage the four cars.  We also now have three trailers and a hospitality staff.  So far the hardest part is just getting everything situated with so many moving parts at play.  We are working out making sure everyone knows what to do and that they have the tools to do it.

“I start every day in my office with a plan of attack and yet I never seem to get to the plan until after 5:00 PM, when I finally get some work done.  We’ve had a lot of help from Pratt & Miller, Riley and CRD to make all this happen, plus our suppliers have been putting in the hours getting us wheels, brakes, gearbox parts, etc.”

Johnson also notes his driver lineup benefits from having a combination of experience and young talent that will mesh into a cohesive and productive powerhouse.

“Another great thing about our program this year is the driver line-up.  In GS, we have two race winners in Matt Bell and Hugh Plumb, plus our second GT car will be very strong with series rookie Günter Schaldach running with Mike Borkowski.  Andrew Davis and Robin Liddell will be back in the 57 again which is great for the consistency they bring to the program. Jeff Bucknum, another veteran racer and team owner, will return to the Sunoco-Camaro livery which his father made famous.  Finally, Al Carter, another series rookie will do 5-8 Continental races with Craig Stone filling the gaps.  I think we have four cars that can win on any given weekend.”

The 2010 Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series presented by Crown Royal Cask No.16 schedule begins with the Rolex 24 Hours at Daytona on January 30th.

The 2010 Grand-Am Continental Tire Sportscar Challenge Series schedule begins with the Fresh From Florida 200 at Daytona International Speedway on January 29th.

More information about the Stevenson Motorsports team, and the new Stevenson performance shop, can be found at www.stevensonmotorsports.com

For more information on the Grand-Am Rolex Series, go to www.grand-am.com/rolex/

Stevenson Motorsports operates out of a facility located in Jacksonville, North Carolina.

Team Overview

Rolex Series: Chevrolet Camaro GT.R built by Pratt & Miller Engineering

Car No. 57 will be piloted by Andrew Davis and Robin Liddell throughout the season. Veteran racer Jan 

Car No. 97 will have Gunter Schaldach and Mike Borkowski sharing wheel time during the season and the pair 

Both of the Rolex Series cars will feature a bold eagle and red, white and blue color scheme reminiscent of the 

Continental Tire Sportscar Challenge Series: Chevrolet Camaro GS.R built by Riley Technologies

Car No. 6 will be driven by Jeff Bucknum and Matt Bell.

Car No. 9 will be driven by Hugh Plumb and Al Carter, with Craig Stone filling in for Carter at the VIR and

Both of the Continental Tire series cars will be painted in the historic Sunoco blue and yellow colors made 

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The car is dressed in the RS Package and comes with some unique visual features as follows:

• 2010 Indianapolis 500 event logo painted on doors and embroidered on driver and passenger headrests
• 2010 Indianapolis 500 event logo badges on front fenders
• All-new front grille insert that Chevrolet plans to offer as a future Camaro accessory
• Amber lens tail lamps
• Complete safety strobe light system with custom interior light bar in the rear window (no rooftop light bar)
• All-new GM Accessory floor mats with red and orange accent stitching

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The Automotive Excellence Awards are based on evaluations of more than 100 new cars and trucks that the editors from Popular Mechanics subject to a strenuous battery of tests. The team of editors then nominates a number of the vehicles for selected categories, with the top-vote getters in each receiving an Automotive Excellence Award.

“The new Chevrolet Camaro is a fresh, thoroughly modern take on the 1967 original,” says Ben Stewart, Automotive Editor, Popular Mechanics. “While the design pays homage to the past, its big tires and taut proportions perfectly convey 21st –century muscle, and there’s some serious firepower under the hood to back that up.”

This is not the first Automotive Excellence Award for Chevrolet. Last year the Corvette ZR1 received an award in the Performance category.

Chevrolet is one of America’s best-known and best-selling automotive brands, and one of the fastest-growing brands in the world. With fuel solutions that range from “gas-friendly to gas-free,” Chevrolet has nine models that offer an EPA-estimated 30 miles per gallon or more on the highway, and offers two hybrid models. More than 2.5 million Chevrolets that run on E85 biofuel have been sold. Chevrolet delivers expressive design, spirited performance and strives to provide the best value in every segment in which it competes. More information can be found at www.chevrolet.com.

Popular Mechanics (www.popularmechanics.com) is a magazine that helps readers master the modern world. In addition to providing hands-on coverage of personal technology, cars and home improvement, PM reports in depth on the science and technology behind major issues — including such stories as disaster planning, hydrogen fuel and other energy alternatives, military expenditures, and digital privacy. Each month, nearly 9 million readers turn for advice and news to the magazine’s editors and contributors, including the likes of Jay Leno, astronauts Buzz Aldrin and Tom Jones, and roboticist Daniel H. Wilson. In addition to its U.S. flagship, Popular Mechanics publishes nine editions around the world. Popular Mechanics is published by Hearst Magazines, a unit of Hearst Corporation (www.hearst.com) and one of the world’s largest publishers of monthly magazines, with nearly 200 editions around the world, including 15 U.S. titles and 19 magazines in the United Kingdom, published through its wholly owned subsidiary, The National Magazine Company Limited. Hearst reaches more adults than any other publisher of monthly magazines (73.8 million total adults, according to MRI, Fall 2009).

Adam Denison
Chevrolet Communications
Tel: 313-665-5127
Mobile: 313-600-5479
adam.denison@gm.com

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Tools Needed:

• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Flat-head Screwdriver
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Time and Patience (Most important!)

Approx. Completion time: ~2 hours. (Could be done in less time, but for purposes of write-up I took my time)

Step 1. Remove the black piece located under the dash on the passenger side. It is held in by two snap in pieces. Just pull them to remove.

Step 2. Remove the passenger side kick panel. It uses 4 philips head screws.

Step 3. Unsnap the large bundle of wires and move them to the side to allow room to get out the BCM.

Step 4. Locate the BCM. It is in a small plastic box held in by a snap in container right infront of the A/C blower fan. It has three plugs that can be removed before or after you get it out of the holder. I found it easier to remove them after.

To get the BCM out of its holder is a little tricky. Its easier to unclip one side and use a screwdriver to hold it back while you unclip the other side and slide it out. It might take some time, but you’ll figure it out.

Here are some pics of the BCM once its removed

Step 5. Here are the solder joints that you will be working with. I did not take any pics of this process because I did it prior to making this write up. Just reheat these and add some solder until you feel they look good.

Step 6. Installation is reverse of removal.

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“This is a car with an international flair, bringing the Camaro to a place it hasn’t traditionally been,” said Parker. “It is a very tailored look that is stylish and sophisticated, but with a distinct American accent.”

The ground effects package includes a racing-inspired front splitter, rocker extensions and a rear diffuser. They are prototype parts that may enter production as dealer-available accessories at a later date; the same goes for the 21-inch wheels from BBS. Many of the details, such as the taillamp and fog lamp bezels, match the finish of the wheels, lending a more premium look to the car.

The Camaro Dusk’s body is painted Berlin Blue, while the ground effects are painted a contrasting color. Additional performance items include the exhaust system and Brembo brakes from a Camaro SS (with painted calipers). The interior is trimmed in stylish Jet Black and Sedona, with complementing features including footwell lighting, premium door sill plates and other details.

Today’s young professionals expect advanced technology and premium audio options and this concept delivers with a crisp, well-tuned Boston Acoustics sound system, WiFi connectivity and a convenient cradle for an iPhone.

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A new silver stripe package
21-inch wheels (future product, with silver-painted spoke centers and a Victory Red stripe)
“Blade” rear spoiler (future product)
Summit White ground effects package
Rear fender vent graphics
Accessory front grille with body-color outer frame (future accessory)
“With its silver graphics on the Summit White paint, this car has a tailored, tone-on-tone appearance that is simultaneously racy and subdued,” said Todd Parker, design manager, GM Accessory Studio. “It is a sophisticated-looking car that is easily duplicated by any customer, because all of the parts are available to build it.”

From a performance standpoint, the Camaro Chroma’s standard LS3 V-8 engine is equipped with current accessories, including a performance intake, shorty headers and performance exhaust system. There’s also a Victory Red engine cover and a Hurst short-throw shifter for the six-speed manual transmission, as well as red-painted Brembo brake calipers.

Inside, the black-and-grey leather seats feature red accent stitching, as do the shifter boot, floor mats and door trim. Accessory inserts for the dashboard and door panels (in silver) are also included as available accessories.

“What’s great about the Camaro Chroma is it speaks to the almost unlimited possibilities that the accessories offer,” said Parker. “You can build your Camaro mild or wild, but build it your way.”

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