the Z is getting an upgrade

[kthxbai]

got a template made for the fourth gen coolant hole- I should be able to cut it tomorrow. Then my real focus is going to be on:

-getting the fuel tank down and the new sender/lines in
-mounting my new pedals and cutting the shifter hole
-painting the bay
-building my wiring harness

I think these are my four big issues until the new drivetrain gets set in.

hows it been going abe? its been a little quiet around here in the thirdgen list- ive had to try and be you answering people's questions!

[Space_monki]

sounds like fun lol

[kthxbai]

im seriously contemplating just cutting off that metal nipple to make this pump fit...

I spent about four hours tonight labeling connectors individual wires, and tracing schematics to figure out where my commons are going to be going. I have all of them taped up and straightened out except for the coil/injector groups, and i still have ALT, OIL LEVEL, and REVERSE LIGHTS leftover without any mention of them in my diagrams.

I believe that REVERSE LIGHTS will go up into my existing auto shifter wiring separate from the rest of my wiring, ALT will go to the fuse block? And i have absolutely no idea where OIL LEVEL goes...

[kthxbai]

all present and accounted for!
from left- knock, maf, iac, ect, map, vss, iat, tps, rev. lockout, opti, O2, O2, rev. lights



bottom left coil group
above inj groups
on paper towel is alt, temp gauge, oil press. gauge, ign common x 2, gnd common


i think im ready to plug them in and route my wires assuming sensor grounds work like i think they do

[ZexGX]

OIL LEVEL goes from the sending unit in or by the oil pan to the PCM. Unless its one wire that goes from the PCM to the gauge cluster to indicate low oil level.

[kthxbai]

siphoned the remaining gas out of my tank today in the lab. we are having the snow storm of the decade starting tomorrow so i will have some downtime to work on the wiring at home (all i have left is to get my alt pigtail updated, still looking for proper resistor info/how to take it apart), and straighten out the ls1 fuel pump/sender which im still mixed up on.

i would still like a person who knows whats what to let me know how sensor grounds work so i dont lose my mind

[kthxbai]

I guess a 470 ohm resistor in line of the existing single wire to pin L is how its going to be. That goes to IGN off the fuse block and thats that.

also after double checking my schematics sensor grounds run straight off the pcm to a sensor, no actual gnd involved except through the pcm.

also realized i didnt get relays for my fans, i only bought two for a main relay and a fuel pump relay as per here:
Fuse Block and OBD2 Port Wiring

anybody have an opinion on how i should set up my fans? i have two 10" plastic fans (aftermarket) that are currently spliced together so you can feed them both power through one set of wires. Should i just run them together as "one" fan?


finally- i have everything else straight with the wiring in my head except the C207 connections. since the car was carbd, i dont have inj. fuses or anything through there. I have found i have nine wires in the C207:
A brown- ALDL/ECM (AIR control)
C wht/grn- light driver/ECM
E wht/blck- ALDL/ECM (test)
F pnk/blck- IGN fuse/EGR-ECM
H tan/blck- ALDL/TCC-ECM
K brown- ECM/VSS
M blck/wht- VSS,p/n switch/GND
N org/blck- ECM/ p/n switch
P ppl- brake/TCC

i could use a hand deciding what goes and what stays. I am assuming pin A is trash (no AIR), pin E is trash (new OBDII diag. port), pin F is trash (will have IGN fuse underhood), pins H+P are trash (no TCC), pin N is trash (going manual)...

so this would potentially leave me with MIL output from PCM to pin C, pins E,K, and M?
all help appreciated.

after looking over my pcm pinouts the only two outputs I have not accounted for are MIL and VSS

~Steven

[kthxbai]

well as of today i officially have every wire involved in my new harness, fuse block, and under dash connector labeled and ready to go. The PITA part is still to come where i have to extend every singe wire to route the PCM up under the dash, but I'll deal with it as it comes. The other thing i have to work on over the snow storm weekend is my fuel pump and sender...
i have concluded that leaving the venturi port open will be alright, but that means there is not enough space for the stock metal fitting connecting the pump to the output. I am instead going to use 3/8" rubber fuel hose and a hose clamp, and hope for the best. If i dont have fuel pressure when i finish everything else, I'll just have to drop the tank again and put in a Walbro.

~Steven

[SnIpEr]

Nice dude! Sorry we couldn't help earlier. Some of that's a bit over a few of us's heads, and for the ones that could help, it's easier to be there and do it I suppose, then figure it all out in your head

[zSpyderXX]

Can't wait to see the outcome of this

[kthxbai]

no hard feelings to this board whatsoever, i appreciate all the help i can get anywhere, and i like to post everything here as a resource for others. Alot of the really technical stuff is coming from folks on ThirdGen.org, but i also post on streetunitforum.com and here every time something happens to get more opinions. Even though alot of the time this thread is pretty lonely, there is a LOT of views, so i know somebody is interested or finding what theyre looking for. Please feel free to post with comments or questions even if you can't answer mine!

~Steven

[SnIpEr]

Yeah dude, I don't post, but everytime I see this thread come up, I check up on it. So does about half of FBO. it's been quite a journey and your continually posting updates makes it quite fun and interesting to read! I'm really looking forward to the outcome as well!

[kthxbai]

got some fuel hose and a clamp on the sender so thats ready to go.

easy questions- are the wires in the LT1 harness 18 gauge?
should i snip the connector off of the fuel sender and solder wires in or should i buy a corresponding female side?
is a rubber vacuum cap ok to put on the evap line or will the fumes eat it away?

[xKellyxVeitx]

I check in every day to see your progress.

You inspire me.

[kthxbai]

so i started working on my fuse block today, and I have managed to confuse myself a bit.

According to my schematics here is what i have found:
PCM battery feed needs a 10A fuse
fuel pump relay needs a 15A fuse
INJ 1 group needs a 7.5A fuse
INJ 2 group needs a 7.5A fuse
PCM IGN feed needs a 15A fuse
MAF needs a 15A fuse
both O2 sensors need a 10A fuse
rev. lockout needs a 10A fuse
ICM needs a 10A fuse
fan relay needs a 10A fuse

so with that, how should i distribute these connections to four fuses- one battery hot at all times, the other three IGN hot?

my hot at all times fuse (#1) will feed my pcm and the fuel relay (and the fan relay?)
IGN fuses (#s 2,3,4) will feed everything that needs IGN, but if two of them are for the injectors, how does this work?

I have seen blocks with only four fuses running everything that I am, so I would appreciate some help figuring out what to overlap etc. I can always add more fuses, but I dont know if it is absolutely necessary.

[supjim]

Originally Posted by kthxbai so i started working on my fuse block today, and I have managed to confuse myself a bit. According to my schematics here is what i have found: PCM battery feed needs a 10A fuse fuel pump relay needs a 15A fuse INJ 1 group needs a 7.5A fuse INJ 2 group needs a 7.5A fuse PCM IGN feed needs a 15A fuse MAF needs a 15A fuse both O2 sensors need a 10A fuse rev. lockout needs a 10A fuse ICM needs a 10A fuse fan relay needs a 10A fuse so with that, how should i distribute these connections to four fuses- one battery hot at all times, the other three IGN hot? my hot at all times fuse (#1) will feed my pcm and the fuel relay (and the fan relay?) IGN fuses (#s 2,3,4) will feed everything that needs IGN, but if two of them are for the injectors, how does this work? I have seen blocks with only four fuses running everything that I am, so I would appreciate some help figuring out what to overlap etc. I can always add more fuses, but I dont know if it is absolutely necessary.

If it was me, I would run PCM constant hot, doing the fuel pump relay hot could burn it out, but the others get to fit in the other slots, fan relay/fuel pump relay. I take it you are running throttle body injection if so you could splice the 2 injectors into 1 fuse, then go from there if you have 7 slots you could seperate and run each seperately. Looks good so far, Yea wiring can be a SOB but once you get a plan it goes by smoothly.

[kthxbai]

none of the parts places around here had a good vent filter so i got one of the generic breathers and stuck it on- I will cap the evap line in school.


started working on the fuse block and relays- waiting for a few more pieces to come in.

[kthxbai]

heres my (nearly) complete fuse block and relays:
1- PCM + fuel relay battery hot
2- PCM + MAF ign feed
3- INJ 1
4- INJ 2
5- O2s and Trans.
6- coil
7- fans + alt

fuel pump relay, IGN relay, fans relay

I'm waiting on a few terminals to be mailed to me so i can finish this up- what I did since i dont have the car set up yet is just gave myself a foot long wire out of each terminal, labeled it, and will splice to that when the time comes.

~Steven

[ZexGX]

The 4th gen fans are wired to come on one after the other. One for low speed cooling effect and two for high speed. It doesn't hurt to have them both on when the car is running but it does tend to wear out the electric motors faster. If you wire them into the PCM as per the factory service manuals and install a manual fan switch (like the SLP one) then they will shut off when they are not needed and extend their service life, yet you'd still have manual control of the fans for when you are beating on the car, sitting in traffic, or in the staging lanes.

[kthxbai]

i remember talking to you about this- what im doing is wiring both of my fans through one relay to come on at the PCM's lower turn on temp and stay on- the car isnt going to be a DD and it would be better at autox etc. I'm less worried about the fans than I am my brain if I have to add any more wires.