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Old 01-19-2010, 09:13 PM   #1
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Default Struggling Upon Acceleration

My car is a 2000 Firebird 3.8L V6 M5
Had to make a quick run to the post office today. So as I started the car everything sounded/seemed fine. As I pulled away from campus I noticed a "sputtering" type hesitation. I thought maybe I needed some gas, so I filled up and continued on my way.
If I ease on the accelerator the car seems to respond fine, but if I go anything above half throttle the car starts to jerk, hesitate and sputter.
It almost feels like like I'm bogging the engine (driving 40mph in 5th gear and trying to accelerate for example) but it happens in all gears. I left it in 3rd and eased it up to about 2.5kRPMs and all was good, but if I pushed it past 3.5k the car began to jerk bad like it was bogging out.
I swung by Vatozone on the way home and the SES light checked. It read Sensor 1 O2. It didn't specify Bank 1 or 2.
I was expecting my sensor 2 to be giving the light since I don't have a CAT but sensor 1 popping up kind of surprised me.
Could this be causing these issues?
Any help would be great!

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Old 01-19-2010, 09:39 PM   #2
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It may be the o2 sensor giving off a wrong message. If it is, it might be putting to much fuel into the cylinders. That might be the cause.
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:28 PM   #3
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I had those symptoms for quite a while when I first got my car and it ended up being a missfire. Despite what that code is telling you, I really think thats your problem too. When was the last time your plugs/wires were changed? If those are new, then its most probably a bad coil pack. They are known to go bad on the 3800.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:17 PM   #4
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I was gonna say 02 sensor as well. I do know that Superman put new plugs in recently (I think?) because he was selling the others. Which would make it either a bad coil pack or 02 sensor

EDIT: Oh Superman, now it is your turn to be the noob. You've never changed your plugs even though you have the wires and the plugs
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:21 PM   #5
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Lol I just got the wire set this past week. I don't have a spark plug socket with me at my dorm, so replacing my plugs and wires hasn't been a possibility.
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Old 01-19-2010, 11:23 PM   #6
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tsk tsk. You shouldve done it at the Vatozone parking lot
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:58 AM   #7
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How long since the fuel filter has been changed?
Partially clogged / dirty fuel filter will cause that.
 


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Old 01-20-2010, 08:59 AM   #8
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is Vatozone a new store, or is it just a name for Autozone?
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:25 AM   #9
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just a name for autozone
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:39 AM   #10
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Okay, I just wanted to make sure
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Old 01-20-2010, 10:00 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Superman View Post
Lol I just got the wire set this past week. I don't have a spark plug socket with me at my dorm, so replacing my plugs and wires hasn't been a possibility.

You can use a regular socket to get the plugs out, just has to be a deep socket. I dont remember the size those, but I am sure you can figure it out.
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:22 AM   #12
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How long since the fuel filter has been changed?
Partially clogged / dirty fuel filter will cause that.
It's been about a year.
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Old 01-20-2010, 12:59 PM   #13
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It's been about a year.
One bad tank of gas is all it takes.
Especially if it's a water issue.
Disconnect the filter, dump out the tank side end, preferrably into a glass container so you can see if there is water, and put it back on.
 


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Old 01-20-2010, 01:09 PM   #14
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Would a fuel filter issue throw an o2 code?
The car has run fine until just yesterday. I'd think with a bad tank of gas, I would've started feeling issues probably before running to the last 1/4 of the tank. I'll look into it if an o2 sensor replace doesn't solve the issues.
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:24 PM   #15
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Extreme cold + less than full tank = condensation when the temps change.
Condensation = water.

I'd sure spend a few minutes checking the filter before I'd spend $40.00 or so for an O2 sensor.
Also, was there a specific "problem" code for Sensor 1?
Usually there's a lean or rich code and a voltage high or low code if it is heated
 


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Old 01-20-2010, 01:35 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by NavyVet View Post
Extreme cold + less than full tank = condensation when the temps change.
Condensation = water.

I'd sure spend a few minutes checking the filter before I'd spend $40.00 or so for an O2 sensor.
Also, was there a specific "problem" code for Sensor 1?
Usually there's a lean or rich code and a voltage high or low code if it is heated
I'm going to have it scanned again later tonight. Stupid me didn't get the specific code.
And yeah, o2 sensors are pushing $50/ea.
Thanks for the help so far.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:21 PM   #17
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I never updated this.
I got a local guy to help me out. Replaced plugs, wires and the 2 o2 sensors before the cat.
Problem was solved!


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I had those symptoms for quite a while when I first got my car and it ended up being a missfire. Despite what that code is telling you, I really think thats your problem too. When was the last time your plugs/wires were changed? If those are new, then its most probably a bad coil pack. They are known to go bad on the 3800.
More info on the coil packs? Where'd you get yours, info on install/replace, etc.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:22 PM   #18
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pt2-
Went to vatozone to pick up a can of Seafoam but before I even got there I noticed the car was acting up again.
Well, actually, I ran a couple of errands before heading to autozone. The whole time the car ran fine, no problems at all.
After making a stop, and then turning the car back on to head to autozone the car starts to bog in 1st and 3rd gear.

Here's the symptoms/issues I'm experiencing:
At a stop/idling (it seems only after the car has reached operating temp) - car seems to "pop?" or "bump". Similar to the feeling of sitting next to someone with a loud sub blasting. You can feel the vibration pulse through you.
So car pulsates randomly.
Starting in 1st - Car seems to not want to go, step on the gas and it moves but hesitates and struggles, then suddenly catches and goes.
2nd- no problems at all it seems.
3rd- similar to first gear. If I really ease into gear it's fine, but if I need to downshift and go hard, it struggles, and jerks, then randomly catches and goes.
4th- no issues.
5th/Reverse- never got into 5th and no problems in reverse.

So I make it to Autozone and have them check out the SES light.
Same problem as before I believe. Here's what the printout they gave me said.
Troubleshooting P0420
Domestic
Definition
Catalyst efficiency low-bank 1
Explanation
The oxygen sensors monitor the Catalytic Converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable cause
- Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to #2, 3, or 4)
- Engine misfire or running condition
- large vacuum leak
- Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:29 PM   #19
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More info on the coil packs? Where'd you get yours, info on install/replace, etc.
Yeah sure. I got them from pep boys. They probably are sold at other places too though. I got just the standard OEM replacement because I have heard multiple times that the MSD is the same and sometimes worse than stock, all for more money. Install is very simple. Just uplug the wires from the coils and remember where they go. Then you will need a small socket (not sure on the size) to remove two bolts on each coil. Just install the new coils and reconnect all the wires correctly and you're good to go.
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:29 PM   #20
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I was having a similar issue recently with my car hesitating and then I found some oil on my MAF screen. My PCV valve was shot and replacing it fixed my problem. Maybe yours is bad as well?
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