Tuning Questions and Answers

[FBC Performance]

Bret Shook, F-Body Central's Tuner will have a regular column/sticky to answer questions about the tuning process, codes, emissions, header issues with the tuning process, etc. Feel free to ask away and he'll post replies as time permits

[Slowass]

Difference in maximum timing between TR55 and TR6 plugs? Large cammed N/A application.

[FBC Performance]

Now you're getting it, you aren't as slow as you say. Brett will start this thing up some time this week, so stay tuned.

[Slowass]

Originally Posted by FBC Performance you aren't as slow as you say.

Oh yeah??

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

I'm in here now... been out sick for awhile...

I'm gonna check the sticky up above for questions directed at me, but I'll go through the posts elsewhere as much as possible...

To answer the question above... timing is not really a question of the spark plug - although that plays a part in it. There is no set answer on what timing will work for a given combination of modifications. That is why an actual dyno tune is so important - that is what tells the tuner what the given combination wants. It will vary some depending on heads/cam/compression and other variables. As a general guideline, most LS1's range between 24 to 28 degrees at WOT. Always start low and add a degree or 2 on the dyno and see where it picks up power... the dyno never lies

[Slowass]

Okay, let me try it this way.

TR55 or TR6 for an 11:1 402?
If I am not mistaken, I am at 33 degrees WOT. Might be the thin air that allows for that though without knock.

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

Originally Posted by Slowass Okay, let me try it this way. TR55 or TR6 for an 11:1 402? If I am not mistaken, I am at 33 degrees WOT. Might be the thin air that allows for that though without knock.

I would run a TR6 with 11.1.... I've found there is a little safety margin, and you won't see a power drop going to a TR6.

Yeah, that's a lotta timing for an LS1! It's not always a matter of if its not knocking - is it making more power with the timing so high? I've found you can often drop timing and pick up power on LS1's in many cases... I see alota cars come in where handhelds, or other tuners, have the timing cranked way up - and I have gained as much as 10 at the wheels over that tune with as much as 3 degrees less timing... But as long as you have verified it on a dyno, and the engine is where it wants to be, then some variable may be making it need that.

[Slowass]

I will be back on the dyno in a few months. Try some things out.
Thanks!

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

Originally Posted by Slowass I will be back on the dyno in a few months. Try some things out. Thanks!

Anytime! Let me know how it goes...

[Slowass]

Hopefully it won't be TOO long, but it might be. lol

[Rocket 442]

I'm wondering if you guys have done any tests with Pypes X-Pipe Exhausts and how they handle the LS1/LT1 if you have?

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

Originally Posted by Rocket 442 I'm wondering if you guys have done any tests with Pypes X-Pipe Exhausts and how they handle the LS1/LT1 if you have?

Not much really... one or two with the Texas Speed duals w/ X... wouldn't say they are any higher than a good y-pipe and catback. For the street, I'd stick with good quality headers, a y-pipe and a Magnaflow catback for the best performance. For the track (occasional street), duals dumped before the axle...

[2002ramairws6]

i have a 2002 ws6 trans am, next to the tcs button is a little red switch, when you flip the switch up a little red light appears on the switch, i would like to know what this switch does/ activates
thanks, adam

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

Originally Posted by 2002ramairws6 i have a 2002 ws6 trans am, next to the tcs button is a little red switch, when you flip the switch up a little red light appears on the switch, i would like to know what this switch does/ activates thanks, adam

Sounds like someone added something aftermarket - could have been nitrous, or a linelock or something like that. Might have taken whatever it was out and just left the switch. You could trace the wires and see if they connect to anything...

[Slowass]

Altitude changes with a MAF tune???

Tuned at 5400 feet.
Seriously thinking about running at 600 feet soon.
Large hydraulic cammed 402. MAF Tune.
What might I need to change before leaving? Would the MAF pick up the difference?
I am thinking it would, but go a little fat.

[Bret-FBCPerformance]

Originally Posted by Slowass Altitude changes with a MAF tune??? Tuned at 5400 feet. Seriously thinking about running at 600 feet soon. Large hydraulic cammed 402. MAF Tune. What might I need to change before leaving? Would the MAF pick up the difference? I am thinking it would, but go a little fat.

The MAF will see the difference as long as your tuner didn't do anything stupid with the MAF table... that's why its important for a tuner to maintain the slope of the MAF table even beyond what they may be tuning at the moment - colder temps and changes in altitude will put you higher up on the table. Most know that and tune the whole table. There are also calculations within the computer that take into account barometric pressure changes through MAP readings. You should be fine...

[Phate]

I have an odd question for you. So, i've rebuilt my 3.8 more times than I can count now, and have a 'few' different combos with cams and such, but im still with the CompCams GT2 Roller Cam 216/216 .507/.507 111LSA, as I prefer the powerband with running the shot of nitrous I have. Anyway, back to the subject at hand.

Two rebuilds ago, I had it dynotuned, without the spray and with. The tune I did that time I was running a stock exhaust manifold. I dyno'd at 298rwhp/240rwtq. (All tunes done at same location with same tech) Im a tech myself, but I hardly know how to use the software they're using and am unsure of somethings they are doing.

Since then, the motor has been rebuilt with all the same components except i've added pacesetter midlength headers and swapped out my gears (4.10's to 3.73's) but after the last dynotune, I dynoed at 270something rwhp but nearly identical rwtq(cant find my sheet right now).

I've checked most everything I know how to sparing taking it to another dyno shop.

[joedabbs2001]

I am wanting to put a 160 degree thermostat in my 2002 WS-6, in the future I want to add a new Cold Air Lid and box, 85mm MAF, headers and cat back with new converters. Nothing too radical but I noticed SLP has a full kit out there with a reprogrammer for 375 horse. If I were to add the parts as money allows, what is a good tuner to cover all of the additions or do I just need to sit on my money and do the package deal?